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Albert Mann Gewurztraminer Furstentum Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 2016

Albert Mann Gewurztraminer Furstentum Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 2016

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"Bright golden-tinged straw-yellow. Sweet spices, tangerine jelly, bitter orange jam and candied violet on the nose and palate. Very long and very Gewürz, presenting a round but refined mouthfeel. Tastes nothing like Mann’s 2016 Gewürz Steingrubler, and showcases just what a difference terroir can make in wines. The violet note is typical of the Furstentum; the “vieilles vignes” moniker refers to the fact that these vines are at least 45 years old. This is another big Gewürz but it comes across as relatively light on its feet (13% alcohol, 32 g/L residual sugar and 4.5 g/L total acidity). Knockout stuff. Drinking window: 2020-2028. 93 points

At Albert Mann, the Barthelmé brothers are very attentive to picking grapes as fast as possible so as to avoid losing aromas and flavors to oxidative effects. For this reason, they employ one of the largest numbers of pickers in the region when harvest time arrives. The estate is also devoted to parcellar vinifications (winemaking plot by plot), mainly because of the very different times at which the many different grape varieties ripen in Alsace (a situation made that much more complex by the region’s myriad terroirs). At Albert Mann, the goal is to make elegant dry wines that make you want to drink while eating. Mann is celebrating 20 years of biodynamic agriculture in 2017.

Ian D'Agata, Vinous (04/18)