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Aldo Conterno Barolo Bussia 2014

Aldo Conterno Barolo Bussia 2014

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"Poderi Aldo Conterno's 2014 Barolo Bussia is a transparent wine, and I don't mean to use that word to describe the wine's appearance or its light color saturation. This Barolo is transparent in terms of its elegance and fragility. The wine offers a silky, fine texture that acts as a springboard to aromas of dried blueberry, cassis, menthol, herb and dried ginger. These aromas are ethereal and fleeting. This Barolo sees 26 months in oak and completes its final stage of integration in stainless steel before bottling. This vintage saw longer maceration times, up to six weeks in the case of this Barolo. That extended time on the skins is meant to protect the wine against the fragile nature of the vintage. A fresh and fruit-filled mouthfeel makes for an open and immediate wine. Drink: 2020-2035. 92 points

Poderi Aldo Conterno has come a long way since the generational passage sparked by the death of Aldo Conterno in 2012 at 81 years old. The winery is managed today by Aldo's three sons: Franco, Stefano and Giacomo. I spent a long time chatting with Giacomo Conterno during my visit to the Langhe this year, and we had the opportunity to reflect on the legendary status of his father and the current state of the estate. When Aldo Conterno was at his winemaking heights in the 1990s, there were just a handful of estates operating in Monforte d'Alba. Today, we can count up to 70 bottlers and producers. "New estates were coming up like mushrooms and this caused us to reflect," says Giacomo. "During that time, we made a firm decision not to make more than 80,000 bottles per year, even though our potential production could reach 500,000." Selection and low yields are the most appropriate way to honor his father's legacy, Giacomo tells me. With nostalgia, he recalls that when his father handed over the reins, he said only three words: "Fatemi bere bene" (or "let me drink well" in English). Not another word was necessary."

Monica Larner, Wine Advocate (237)