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Aldo Conterno Bussiador 2015

Aldo Conterno Bussiador 2015

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"The 2015 Langhe Chardonnay Bussiador is a lavish and exuberant white wine that is bursting with sun-ripened aromas of exotic fruit, peach, pineapple and a distant touch of cinnamon. Acidity is never a problem with Chardonnay grown in this part of Northern Italy, even in a hot vintage such as this. In fact, the wine offers lasting freshness. Malolactic fermentations also finish without issues. Some 8,500 bottles were produced. I tasted this wine on the warm side (at room temperature), and despite this fact, the mineral definition and clarity of the wine was impressive. The finish is silky, smooth and soft. Drink: 2018-2024. 92+ points

Poderi Aldo Conterno has come a long way since the generational passage sparked by the death of Aldo Conterno in 2012 at 81 years old. The winery is managed today by Aldo's three sons: Franco, Stefano and Giacomo. I spent a long time chatting with Giacomo Conterno during my visit to the Langhe this year, and we had the opportunity to reflect on the legendary status of his father and the current state of the estate. When Aldo Conterno was at his winemaking heights in the 1990s, there were just a handful of estates operating in Monforte d'Alba. Today, we can count up to 70 bottlers and producers. "New estates were coming up like mushrooms and this caused us to reflect," says Giacomo. "During that time, we made a firm decision not to make more than 80,000 bottles per year, even though our potential production could reach 500,000." Selection and low yields are the most appropriate way to honor his father's legacy, Giacomo tells me. With nostalgia, he recalls that when his father handed over the reins, he said only three words: "Fatemi bere bene" (or "let me drink well" in English). Not another word was necessary."

Monica Larner, Wine Advocate (237)