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Benedicte & Stephane Tissot Vin Jaune La Vasee 2012

Benedicte & Stephane Tissot Vin Jaune La Vasee 2012

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"The smoky 2012 Arbois Vin Jaune La Vasée from Triassic clay soils has a surprising 16% alcohol, but it feels very balanced because of the yeast that formed the veil—some yeasts increase alcohol and others lower it. This is always smoky with a faint whisky-like character that makes it very different. Maybe it's because of it, but it tends to be my favorite, and 2012 is not an exception. Drink: 2019-2030. 96 points

I spent a fantastic morning with Stéphane Tissot, doing a short running tour of the vineyards (as he does) and then tasting the wide portfolio of his wines. Crémant is 30% of the volume in the Jura and a little less at Tissot but still quite significant. He has 50 hectares of vines and selects vineyards for the crémant and still wines, so this helps to improve the quality of the still wines. I always try to save enough time, but it's never really enough. I feel that we devoted a lot of time to the ouillé Chardonnays (which is great, because they are among the best in Jura), but then we need to rush when the vin jaune arrives, which is probably the one that needs more time to develop in the glass and show itself. Plus he's the only one currently, as far as I know, making vin jaune from different soils. I will devote a full day next time to make sure I do justice to the vin jaunes and other special wines that we tend to taste at the end and so that I don't need to run to the following appointment. Promised Stéphane!"

Luis Gutierrez, Wine Advocate (243)