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Bernard & Thierry Glantenay Volnay Premier Cru Clos des Chenes 2017

Bernard & Thierry Glantenay Volnay Premier Cru Clos des Chenes 2017

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"The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes wafts from the glass with aromas of raspberries, cherries, citrus peel, rich soil and warm spices, subtly framed by creamy new oak. On the palate, it's full-bodied, with the most depth, dimension and amplitude of any wine in the cellar, its juicy core of fruit entirely cloaking is fine structuring tannins. One of the best renditions of this vineyard I tasted in 2017, it's a very impressive wine. Drink: 2021-2040. 92-94 points

As I wrote last year, the disarmingly modest Thierry Glantenay produces a lovely range of elegant, pure and intense Volnays and Pommards at his hillside winery overlooking the Marquis d'Angerville's Clos des Ducs. In the cuverie, he tells me, he is more and more content to let temperature and alcohol do the work of extraction for him, keeping pigéage and rémontage to a minimum. He also gently presses the grapes, and élevage, without racking until the mise en bouteille, takes place in at most 30% new barrels. His 2018s have turned out very well, delivering generous, textural wines that remain structurally refined and lively—wines that will drink well young but also age gracefully. This under-the-radar estate comes warmly recommended."

William Kelley, Wine Advocate (02/20)