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Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino 2012

Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino 2012

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"Bright red. Fresh, complex aromas of sweet red berries, pomegranate, sour red cherry, orange peel, violet and brown spices. Bright and juicy, with building density and multilayered flavors of sour red cherries and raspberry, complicated by a hint of peach. Finishes long and clean with strong mineral and floral nuances. This is an extremely fruity and remarkably ready to drink Brunello for this property, known for tough as nails wines when young that normally require lots of patience. Still, despite its obvious upfront charm, this has real structure and depth and will age well.Easily one of the top three Brunellos of the vintage. Drinking window: 2022-2036. 94 points

Beginning in 2017, Biondi-Santi has entered a partnership with EPI, a French group (owners of Charles Heidsieck and Piper-Heidsieck, among others) in order to have better market penetration and greater financial support. Jacopo Biondi-Santi is quick to point out however that nothing much has changed (save for the decision not to bottle the estate’s excellent Rosato this year and the next, which is a shame). He has started putting his Brunello through malo right after the alcoholic fermentation is completed and directly in stainless steel, which in his view leads to slightly more accessible wines when young (prior to this change, the estate’s wines went through malo very slowly, often the following spring). He has also invested in a new press that allows for gentler pressing of the grapes and softer extraction, such that Sangiovese’s potentially bitter tannin pips aren’t forcefully leached out. Undoubtedly, the Biondi-Santi wines of recent vintages seem to boast a little more early appeal than in the past."

Ian D'Agata, Vinous (03/17)