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Comando G Mataborricos 2018

Comando G Mataborricos 2018

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"The red 2018 Mataborricos is not widely known and is probably also their most extreme wine. It's a mixture of different grape varieties—Garnacha, of course, but a majority of other varieties, mainly Listán Prieto (a.k.a. País), plus other reds they are in the process of identifying and even some white grapes—and was produced in a very artisanal way, trying to replicate the wines from the past in the zone, where they used clay pots for fermentation and aging. The grapes are selected from individual plants from different old vineyards, fermented with indigenous yeasts and matured for 12 months in "tinaja" (amphora). This is the wildest and most extreme of the reds, a radical and characterful wine that's different from the others, with a mixture of berries, herbs and a meaty and earthy touch. The palate has vibrant acidity, fine-grained tannins and a dry, granite-driven finish. 1,409 bottles were filled in November 2019. Drink: 2020-2024. 92 points

Comando G continues to serve as the reference point in Gredos. Most of the 2018s are not in bottle yet, so I mostly tasted wines from 2017—a challenging year with hail and frost that made it impossible to bottle some of the single-vineyard wines (Breña and Tamboril Tinto) and affected others, mainly the vineyards in the village of Rozas de Puerto Real. 2017 was also ripe and dry, more in line with 2012 than 2015, as the wines also have finesse and lightness. Once again Rumbo al Norte is the best wine, but in the challenging 2017 vintage, the difference from the others is even more obvious because the plot didn't suffer hail or frost and is one of the best-prepared to withstand dry conditions. It's a wine that transcends the vintage."

Luis Gutierrez, Wine Advocate (04/20)