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An expressive nose offers up an impressively pure array that is layered with copious amounts of earth and discreet spice notes. The earthy character continues onto the sleekly textured and well-detailed flavors that possess good if not special complexity on the mildly rustic and austere finale. This offers a bit more size and weight than the Digoine but the latter is more complete.
Aubert de Villaine's nephew Pierre de Benoist was putting the final touches on a completely renovated and reequipped cuverie when I saw him in July. Interestingly, all natural materials were used and the structural dimensions of the chai were designed to conform exactly to the so-called "golden ratio" which is not only aesthetically pleasing but believed by some to promote harmony. With respect to the 2013 vintage, he described it as "a genuinely complicated and difficult vintage. The flowering was late and there was rain so yields were compromised basically from the beginning. It then basically rained for much of the summer before finally clearing up for most of September that allowed maturities to reach reasonable levels. Yields though were low and we realized only between 28 and 30 hl/ha. Quality however was surprisingly good and in any event better than I expected even though the exotic aromas that most of the whites display are not what I would describe as typical." Note that the single vineyard Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise "Les Clous" in white has been replaced by a multi-parcel wine called Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise Les Clous Aimé.
Drink: 2020+. 88 points"
Allen Meadows, Burghound (60)