Skip to Store Area:

0 Items - £0.00 | Checkout

Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben 2016

Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben 2016

Availability: In stock

£274.95
Add to Basket


"Once again this year, Müller kept separate the wine sourced from his one remaining single-post-trained parcel, planted in 1958. This year, there was just a single such bottling, as the two casks were judged to play well together. The minimum price (once again eye-watering!) was set at auction, but the winery retains a substantial share for future sale. A soaring nose and luscious, tinglingly bright palate of white peach, white currant and lemon display formidable concentration allied to utmost delicacy. And even on the nose there are strongly stony and marine mineral intimations. The finish adds a mustard-seed-like crunch and sizzle, along with a wealth of mouthwateringly savory salinity and stony depth. This exhibits the sort of subtle, adeptly integrated sweetness for which the elusive but nowadays much-used (perhaps often misused) descriptor feinherb strikes me as fitting. “At one time, a portion of these vines were often left hanging in hope of Eiswein,” noted Veronika Lintner, “but as Eisweins have become fewer and resulted in a lot of grapes being lost, that seemed a real shame and it was decided to attempt Eiswein in a different parcel” (an attempt in which the estate in fact succeeded in this vintage). Drinking window: 2017-2035  94 points

“Let’s put it this way,” said Egon Müller’s assistant Veronika Lintner. “In August of 2016, we weren’t counting on anything like the wines we ended up with. When we started picking on October 11, we were amazed at how healthy the grapes were. There were only healthy grapes – absolutely no botrytis. On October 21,” continued Lintner, “we called a halt for 10 days in hope of botrytis developing.” But it didn’t, which explains why there is not even a single Müller Scharzhofberg Auslese from this vintage, although the Wiltinger Braune Kupp eventually came through on that score – and with dramatic results. “There was some concentration here and there through dehydration,” reported Müller in explaining why there is just a single 2016 Scharzhofberg Spätlese, and that not picked until early November, “but it wasn’t to the point where selective picking would have resulted in sufficiently distinctive differences. And as for botrytis, that requires some humidity, whereas October 2016 remained completely dry. Acid levels weren’t high like in 2015,” he added – but he’s pulling my leg a bit, because he’s talking about 2016 levels in excess of nine grams a liter! Grapes left hanging in the Scharzhofberg after the first week of November eventually froze hard on the 30th and again on December 5, resulting in a phenomenally concentrated if as yet embryonic Eiswein. The small number of bottlings here this year is deceptive as regards yields. Peronospora in Saarburg accounted for a dramatic reduction in the volume of Riesling Scharzhof, but losses in the Braune Kupp and Scharzhofberg were at most 20%."

David Schildknecht, Vinous (03/18)