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Emmerich Knoll Gruner Veltliner Vinothekfullung Smaragd 2017

Emmerich Knoll Gruner Veltliner Vinothekfullung Smaragd 2017

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"The 2017 Loibner Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Vinothekfüllung is sourced in the best part of the Kreutles, the Loibenberg and the Kellerberg. The intensely yellow colored wine offers a deep and highly refined bouquet with elegant fruit aromas intertwined with crunchy stony and floral notes. Full-bodied, lush and intense on the palate, this is a very complex but refined and highly elegant Vinothekfüllung with a long and intense, well-concentrated and structured finish. A great wine. Tasted in Unterloiben/Wachau, September 2018. Drink: 2018-2040. 95 points

"2017 has been as dry as never before between January and July," says Emmy Knoll senior, who has recorded the weather data for 50 years. "The leaves turned yellow or even brown already in June. It was the rain in the middle of August that rescued the vintage. After that, the temperatures went down and the night temperatures were cool, which finally gave elegant and fruity wines with refreshing acidity levels. To be honest, during the summer, neither we nor our colleagues thought 2017 would give so beautiful wines at the end. Especially Riesling kept its acidity incredibly high, with two grams per liter more than Grüner Veltliner. I have to say, we are very happy with the 2017 vintage."

Indeed, Knoll's 2017s are homogeneously great, especially the Rieslings whose finest example comes from the Ried Schütt, which benefited from the cool evening winds from the rift (Menthalgraben) at whose end the rather flat but stony (gneiss) detritic cone cru is located. Also the Grüner Veltliner Vinothekfüllung is an impressive wine and perhaps one of the finest that was produced in the 2017 vintage. It is concentrated and very complex but refined and highly elegant. Readers shouldn't miss tasting the mouth-filling Kreutles Federspiel Veltliner too. It's a different character compared to the Smaragd, but it's on the same high-quality level. Among the Loibenberg bottlings, I even prefer the medium-weight Federspiel Riesling to the Smaragd, since it is just as fine and elegant, mineral and tensioned and highly stimulatingly."

Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate (240)