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Fontodi Dino 2014

Fontodi Dino 2014

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"The 2014 Dino is bold, powerful and pungent. In this vintage, the Dino has more of an overt amphora character, especially in its aromatics. Bright red stone fruit and floral notes struggle to emerge from a sheen of reduction. It will be interesting to see where the 2014 goes in time. Today, the 2014 tastes like a sample straight from amphora. This Is a remarkably translucent weightless striking, totally finessed Sangiovese. Drinking window: 2017-2025. 90+ points.

There is little doubt Giovanni Manetti is at the top of his game. After tasting these wines from bottle along with multiple barrel samples, my impression is that Manetti continues to make small but important changes that are moving his wines towards a style that emphasizes finesse over sheer power. Of course, 2013 and 2014 both yielded generally delicate wines, so some of that may be attributable to vintage characteristics. It is too soon to tell for sure. The Sangioveses still see about two years in oak, which is on the longer side, but the gradual introduction of casks in the cellar appears to be playing a significant role in giving the wines added polish and elegance. This year, Fontodi fans will notice the addition of a new wine, the Chianti Classico Filetta di Lamole, which Giovanni Manetti is making and marketing on behalf of relatives who own vineyards in Lamole, one of the few areas in Chianti Classico that have always been planted to vines as opposed to mixed crops, as was the custom in most of Tuscany up until fairly recently. Manetti adds that he plans to release all of his top labels in 2014, although production will be down sharply.

Antonio Galloni, Vinous (10/16)