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Henschke Johann's Garden 2017

Henschke Johann's Garden 2017

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"The 2017 Johann's Garden is a blend of 76% Grenache, 18% Mataro and 6% Shiraz, aged in used French oak hogsheads. Sandalwood, cherries and exotic spices appear on the nose of this full-bodied, opulent offering. It's creamy and mouthfilling without seeming heavy or overdone, remaining fresh and lively through the lingering finish that picks up hints of star anise and ground pepper. Drink: 2020-2025. 91 points

A member of the sixth generation of the family to work this Eden Valley property, Justine Henschke made it a point to show that the range of the family's efforts extends well beyond the big-name icon Shiraz bottlings from Hill of Grace and Mount Edelstone. In fact, this tasting included a few Henschke firsts for me—a Nebbiolo, a Tempranillo and a reserve-level Pinot Noir. The family's Lenswood property suffered severe damage in the Adelaide Hills bushfire this year, and it remains to be seen how quickly those vineyards will bounce back (the portions that survived) or how quickly replanting will be able to fill that void in the lineup. At least for now, the quality level across all of the offerings is commendable, with only four out of the 28 wines failing to reach 90 points. For my money, the best values are the Mount Edelstone Shiraz and the Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon, but I sincerely doubt that anyone who springs for the Hill of Grace in either of these vintages will be disappointed."

Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate (05/20)