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Kracher Grande Cuvee Nouvelle Vague No. 6 Trockenbeerenauslese 2004 (375ml)

Kracher Grande Cuvee Nouvelle Vague No. 6 Trockenbeerenauslese 2004 (375ml)

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"Seldom has there been a better example of the coexistence of creaminess and delicacy for which this unique Kracher genre (a blend of Chardonnay and Welschriesling) is known than the 2004 #6 Grande Cuvee Trockenbeerenauslese Nouvelle Vague. This mingles brown-spiced pear, quince, and crabapple with caramel, vanilla, and lemon cream. A further, floral topping hovers over the fruits as one slips and slides over a slick of glyerin into a rich, spicy yet positively refreshing finish. All the while there is a most noble and mysterious voice of the botrytis itself, subtly suggestive of bread and truffle. This should be lovely to follow for a decade or more. 95 points

The inspiring and otherwise irrepressible Alois “Luis” Kracher died last December 5, after a nearly year-long battle with pancreatic cancer. His son Gerhard, 27, and still-active father will continue the work of this exemplary estate. Note: I tasted the Kracher wines of 2005 and 2006 for the reviews above this Spring, and the 2004s in late 2007 and again this Spring. Kracher was restrained in his early judgment of the challenging 2004 vintage, in which he could not start picking noble rot until November, and continued until Christmas. “The first selections were wonderful; the second passage classic, good; the third – kaput,” was how he described it. “From two months of work,” he continued, “we netted 6,000 liters of quality T.B.A.,” from which he promises a modest-sized collection so that – as he puts it – he wouldn’t have to apologize for a vintage that is good but not great. I don’t believe that this was a tactical confession on his part. Kracher was genuinely surprised by the quality that emerged as his 2004 collection evolved, and in the end, he bottled the same number of Trockenbeerenauslesen – ten – as in the manifestly more classic botrytis vintage of 2005."

David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate (177)