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Luis Seabra Granito Cru 2017

Luis Seabra Granito Cru 2017

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£27.99
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"The 2017 Alvarinho "Granito Cru" was aged for 12 months in used Eastern European vats (mostly Slovenian) and comes in at 12.8% alcohol. Luis Seabra says this "is inspired by the old methods, where the wines fermented in old wood—barrels of 500 liters or small barrels—and remained there before being bottled." Sourced from Melgaço in the parish of Paderne, the vines are over 25 years old. It had no added sulfur and full malolactic fermentation. This is one of the priciest Vinhos Verdes around (although a more reasonable 20 euros in Portugal), another sign of how the region has changed at the upper level.

This is full-bodied and relatively round, a serious table wine style. Seabra picked early to retain acidity, but there is no green, and the acidity is well integrated. Fresh, clean and able to handle its wood so well that you barely feel it (some of the vats were very old), this is very nice but not, perhaps, the greatest in the brand. It should age reasonably well, but there is little track record and this was a fat year, so take that in stages. I liked this a lot, but the price point is a bit daunting in the USA. There were 4,290 bottles and 120 magnums produced. 
Drink: 2019-2025. 90 points"

Mark Squires, Wine Advocate (244)