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Marquis d'Angerville Pommard Premier Cru Combes Dessus 2018

Marquis d'Angerville Pommard Premier Cru Combes Dessus 2018

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"The 2018 Pommard 1er Cru Combes Dessus has turned out nicely this year, offering up pretty aromas of raspberries, raw cocoa, orange rind and flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, with lively acids and a generous core of fruit, framed by powdery tannins. Concluding with a long finish, it's decidedly promising. 90-92 points

After d'Angerville's immensely charming 2017 portfolio—which I'll be revisiting in the spring, as well as going into a bit more depth about the domaine's history and holdings—the 2018 vintage at this Volnay reference point is more muscular and structured, wines that will both need and reward élevage and bottle age. Stylistically, comparisons with the 2005 vintage wouldn't be out of place, though I think these 2018s won't be quite as youthfully unyielding as that year. As ever, the domaine has produced exemplary wines, and I warmly recommend them.

As I wrote last year, followers of d'Angerville will be familiar with the protocol here: biodynamic farming, destemmed grapes, classical macerations and élevage in barrels—of which 20% are new, older barrels generally being retained for five vintages. These have always been seriously long-lived wines, but contemporary d'Angerville isn't quite as backward and slow to evolve as the wines were in the days of Guillaume d'Angerville's father. The use of barrels with a somewhat younger average age—even if percentages of new wood are very modest—gives them a slightly glossier patina, especially in their youth. But readers can expect more insights into this estate later in 2020."

William Kelley, Wine Advocate (01/20)