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Ostertag Pinot Gris Muenchberg Grand Cru A360P 2016

Ostertag Pinot Gris Muenchberg Grand Cru A360P 2016

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"Bright straw-green with golden tinges. Aromas of butter, pear and chamomile. Clean and fresh on entry, then more savory and tactile; some oaky tannins are currently showing, suppressing the pomaceous fruit flavors. Finishes very long and peppery, with a youthfully chewy quality. The wine is aged in barriques for one year and no new oak was used in 2016 (but depending on the vintage, it can be as high as 25%). This specific spot in the Muenchburg has a high limestone content, and the wine’s similarity to Chardonnay continues in its buttery notes. Drinking window: 2021-2030. 92+ points

Things will never be the same for me at Ostertag. This year, André Ostertag decided to step back and let his son Arthur take over the main winemaking duties while he heals from Parkinson’s. I first met André in 1992, and he is one of the nicest people in Alsace wine. I wish him well and hope to see him back and active at the estate before long. Today, the Ostertag estate farms 15 hectares divided over more than 100 plots of vines. Arthur spent his first full year back at the winery in 2016 and was entrusted with two plots of Riesling (less than 0.1 hectares), the grapes from which were usually part of the Riesling Les Jardins. This became Arthur’s pet project; he made about 400 bottles in 2016, following winemaking methods similar to his father’s (though he prefers not to make, at least for now, a pied de cuve from the indigenous yeasts). The lineup of wines I tried this year at the estate was extremely impressive."

Ian D'Agata, Vinous (01/19)