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Pichler-Krutzler Gruner Veltliner Frauengarten 2016

Pichler-Krutzler Gruner Veltliner Frauengarten 2016

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"Low-key in aromas and flavors, with a caressing softness but ample primary juiciness, this features snap pea and honeydew melon and a meadow-like overtone of grasses and flowers. There is a lovely sense of lift and transparency to a finish that irresistibly calls for the next sip. Do not mistake understatement for lack of complexity, nor be fooled into imagining that unpropitiously flat riverside locations inevitably yield fruity simplicity. Drinking window: 2018-2020. 90 points

Elisabeth Pichler and Erich Krutzler began their 2016 harvest on September 23, finishing in the first week of November. The crop here – in what was the couple’s first entirely organic outing – was not only surprisingly abundant for the vintage but also, according to Krutzler, rudely healthy. He nonetheless opted for gentle and in most instances immediate pressing, with the aim of optimizing clarity and achieving, in his words, “vertical, straight wines.” The approach proved a great success, very much aided by the proclivity of this ripening season to yield generously ripe flavors at substantially lower potential alcohol than did 2015. Pichler and Krutzler were concerned as usual to get their Rieslings into bottle in June or early July before the arrival of midsummer heat – which ended up arriving in spades in 2017. A bit of the Grüner Veltliner got bottled slightly later. (For details concerning this estate’s vineyards, practices and recent history, readers are invited to consult the extended introductions to my reports on its 2013 and 2014 collections.)"

David Schildknecht, Vinous (12/18)