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Pichler-Krutzler Gruner Veltliner Kellerberg 2016

Pichler-Krutzler Gruner Veltliner Kellerberg 2016

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"At 13.3% the highest-alcohol of Pichler and Krutzler’s vintage 2016 Grüner Veltliner, this manages for all of its richness and gloss to evince a certain sense of lift and animation as well as an admirable transparency to herbal and mineral nuances. Pear, white peach and green bean are accented on the nose and on the glossy palate by Szechuan peppercorn, peat, alkali and crushed stone. The succulence and infectious primary juiciness of the finish underscore the wine’s ripe fruit flavors, but there is no lack of invigoration or lingering mineral and herbal intrigue. And slight salinity serves to keep the salivary glands pumping. Drinking window: 2018-2030. 93 points

Elisabeth Pichler and Erich Krutzler began their 2016 harvest on September 23, finishing in the first week of November. The crop here – in what was the couple’s first entirely organic outing – was not only surprisingly abundant for the vintage but also, according to Krutzler, rudely healthy. He nonetheless opted for gentle and in most instances immediate pressing, with the aim of optimizing clarity and achieving, in his words, “vertical, straight wines.” The approach proved a great success, very much aided by the proclivity of this ripening season to yield generously ripe flavors at substantially lower potential alcohol than did 2015. Pichler and Krutzler were concerned as usual to get their Rieslings into bottle in June or early July before the arrival of midsummer heat – which ended up arriving in spades in 2017. A bit of the Grüner Veltliner got bottled slightly later. (For details concerning this estate’s vineyards, practices and recent history, readers are invited to consult the extended introductions to my reports on its 2013 and 2014 collections.)"

David Schildknecht, Vinous (12/18)