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Pichler-Krutzler Gruner Veltliner Klostersatz 2016

Pichler-Krutzler Gruner Veltliner Klostersatz 2016

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"With a satiny texture and a palpable sense of extract-richness, this features lima bean, lime and muskmelon in a brightly juicy, subtly earthy performance that – as has often been the case – lacks quite the buoyancy or clarity of the corresponding and ostensibly lesser Frauenweingarten. But it’s nonetheless delightful stuff, with an undertone of wet stone serving to set off the legume and succulent fruit flavors on the soothingly lingering finish. Drinking window: 2018-2020. 89 points

Elisabeth Pichler and Erich Krutzler began their 2016 harvest on September 23, finishing in the first week of November. The crop here – in what was the couple’s first entirely organic outing – was not only surprisingly abundant for the vintage but also, according to Krutzler, rudely healthy. He nonetheless opted for gentle and in most instances immediate pressing, with the aim of optimizing clarity and achieving, in his words, “vertical, straight wines.” The approach proved a great success, very much aided by the proclivity of this ripening season to yield generously ripe flavors at substantially lower potential alcohol than did 2015. Pichler and Krutzler were concerned as usual to get their Rieslings into bottle in June or early July before the arrival of midsummer heat – which ended up arriving in spades in 2017. A bit of the Grüner Veltliner got bottled slightly later. (For details concerning this estate’s vineyards, practices and recent history, readers are invited to consult the extended introductions to my reports on its 2013 and 2014 collections.)"

David Schildknecht, Vinous (12/18)