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Pichler-Krutzler Gruner Veltliner Loibenberg 2016

Pichler-Krutzler Gruner Veltliner Loibenberg 2016

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"Picked in not quite mid-October and ahead of the corresponding Superin, this was bottled a month earlier (in July) than the latter, all in a successful attempt to capture clarity and liveliness as well as Loibenberg-typical richness. Classic white peach, mirabelle, white pepper and struck flint on the nose anticipate the succulent, suggestively sweet fruit and stimulating mineral impingements delivered on a satiny palate. There is a cooling and refreshing combination of herbal suffusion and sheer juiciness to the finish – on which muskmelon and green bean join in – that one doesn’t often encounter from this site. “You really have to watch out with Loibenberg,” commented Krutzler, “because it easily goes to overripeness.” Drinking window: 2018-2026. 92 points

Elisabeth Pichler and Erich Krutzler began their 2016 harvest on September 23, finishing in the first week of November. The crop here – in what was the couple’s first entirely organic outing – was not only surprisingly abundant for the vintage but also, according to Krutzler, rudely healthy. He nonetheless opted for gentle and in most instances immediate pressing, with the aim of optimizing clarity and achieving, in his words, “vertical, straight wines.” The approach proved a great success, very much aided by the proclivity of this ripening season to yield generously ripe flavors at substantially lower potential alcohol than did 2015. Pichler and Krutzler were concerned as usual to get their Rieslings into bottle in June or early July before the arrival of midsummer heat – which ended up arriving in spades in 2017. A bit of the Grüner Veltliner got bottled slightly later. (For details concerning this estate’s vineyards, practices and recent history, readers are invited to consult the extended introductions to my reports on its 2013 and 2014 collections.)"

David Schildknecht, Vinous (12/18)