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Pichler-Krutzler Riesling Kellerberg 2016

Pichler-Krutzler Riesling Kellerberg 2016

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"There is a generosity of ripe peach and pear along with a loose but luscious corresponding fruitiness on the glossy palate, lending this wine a forward appeal that I would not usually associate with a youthful Kellerberg Riesling. That having been noted, it also features a stimulating burst of back-end lemony brightness as well as an admirably diverse range of smoky, peppery and stony shadings from the nose all the way through a lusciously lingering, dynamic finish in which the fruit and minerals engage in near-kaleidoscopic interaction. For all of my just now mustered superlatives, Elisabeth Pichler expressed the opinion that the wine is site-typically closed in the present showing compared to its potential. Go figure. Drinking window: 2018-2028. 94 points

Elisabeth Pichler and Erich Krutzler began their 2016 harvest on September 23, finishing in the first week of November. The crop here – in what was the couple’s first entirely organic outing – was not only surprisingly abundant for the vintage but also, according to Krutzler, rudely healthy. He nonetheless opted for gentle and in most instances immediate pressing, with the aim of optimizing clarity and achieving, in his words, “vertical, straight wines.” The approach proved a great success, very much aided by the proclivity of this ripening season to yield generously ripe flavors at substantially lower potential alcohol than did 2015. Pichler and Krutzler were concerned as usual to get their Rieslings into bottle in June or early July before the arrival of midsummer heat – which ended up arriving in spades in 2017. A bit of the Grüner Veltliner got bottled slightly later. (For details concerning this estate’s vineyards, practices and recent history, readers are invited to consult the extended introductions to my reports on its 2013 and 2014 collections.)"

David Schildknecht, Vinous (12/18)