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Pichler-Krutzler Riesling Trum 2016

Pichler-Krutzler Riesling Trum 2016

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"Effusively aromatic and refreshingly juicy, this 11.8% alcohol bottling delivers a classic combination of apple, white peach and lime, piquantly and invigoratingly accented by flavors of seed, pit and zest. The palate impression is polished and glossy without offering a cushion on which you want to lie back and take a nap. The long, lively and lilting, strikingly pure finish introduces welcome complications by way of stone and mineral salts, rendering the next sip virtually irresistible. This is one of those Rieslings that – like F.X. Pichler’s Oberhauser from very nearby – demonstrates how much complex potential lies hidden in some very gentle but well-drained and gravel-underlain slopes near the Danube at Loiben. Drinking window: 2018-2022. 91 points

Elisabeth Pichler and Erich Krutzler began their 2016 harvest on September 23, finishing in the first week of November. The crop here – in what was the couple’s first entirely organic outing – was not only surprisingly abundant for the vintage but also, according to Krutzler, rudely healthy. He nonetheless opted for gentle and in most instances immediate pressing, with the aim of optimizing clarity and achieving, in his words, “vertical, straight wines.” The approach proved a great success, very much aided by the proclivity of this ripening season to yield generously ripe flavors at substantially lower potential alcohol than did 2015. Pichler and Krutzler were concerned as usual to get their Rieslings into bottle in June or early July before the arrival of midsummer heat – which ended up arriving in spades in 2017. A bit of the Grüner Veltliner got bottled slightly later. (For details concerning this estate’s vineyards, practices and recent history, readers are invited to consult the extended introductions to my reports on its 2013 and 2014 collections.)"

David Schildknecht, Vinous (12/18)