Barossa Valley


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  • Henschke Keyneton Euphonium 2016

    £39.99

    “A blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, the 2016 Keyneton Euphonium beautifully marries the mint and herb of the Bordeaux varieties with the plumminess and spice of the Shiraz. Hints of mint, tea and violets accent dark, plummy fruit, then finish with savory overtones of black olive. It’s full-bodied and supple, ready to drink now or age 15 or more years. Drink: 2020-2035. 93 points

    A member of the sixth generation of the family to work this Eden Valley property, Justine Henschke made it a point to show that the range of the family’s efforts extends well beyond the big-name icon Shiraz bottlings from Hill of Grace and Mount Edelstone. In fact, this tasting included a few Henschke firsts for me—a Nebbiolo, a Tempranillo and a reserve-level Pinot Noir. The family’s Lenswood property suffered severe damage in the Adelaide Hills bushfire this year, and it remains to be seen how quickly those vineyards will bounce back (the portions that survived) or how quickly replanting will be able to fill that void in the lineup. At least for now, the quality level across all of the offerings is commendable, with only four out of the 28 wines failing to reach 90 points. For my money, the best values are the Mount Edelstone Shiraz and the Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon, but I sincerely doubt that anyone who springs for the Hill of Grace in either of these vintages will be disappointed.”

    Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate (05/20)

    In Stock

  • Powell & Son Barossa & Eden Valleys Shiraz 2017

    £46.99

    “Deep ruby. Highly perfumed dark berry and floral scents are complemented by suggestions of allspice and licorice and a smoky mineral flourish lends urgency. Concentrated yet lively as well, offering sweet blueberry and cherry liqueur flavors that are sharpened by a peppery note. Plays depth off of energy with a smooth hand and finishes sweet and long, with supple tannins making a late appearance. Drinking window: 2023-2032. 93 points

    After parting ways with Torbreck, the winery that he founded in 1994, David Powell took a brief pause and returned in grand style with his son, Callum, for this project. Readers familiar with the wines that Powell made over the years at Torbreck will no doubt appreciate these extroverted, intensely perfumed and flavored wines, which show the full-throated Barossa style at its best. These wines exhibit almost shockingly fine detail for their mass and power. The thick-staved barrels made by Dominique Laurent are omnipresent here, and they are ideally suited for the extended aging regimen that Powell favors. While the barrel presence in these 2017s is undeniable, so is fruit intensity, which makes me confident that, with patience, the wines are more than capable of absorbing the oak.”

    Josh Raynolds, Vinous (12/21)

    In Stock

  • Powell & Son Barossa Grenache/Shiraz/Mataro 2016

    £49.99

    “One of the best values and flat-out sexiest wines in the lineup is the 2016 Grenache-Shiraz-Mataro. Driven by the 1901-planted Grenache from Seppeltsfield that makes up 60% of the blend, it’s richer, darker and deeper than the Riverside bottling. Sage and licorice notes add nuance to the black cherries on the nose and palate of this full-bodied, richly concentrated and layered offering. Drink: 2018-2030. 94 points

    Dave Powell was the founding winemaker at Torbreck (1994), where he single-handedly built the brand into a major player before being ousted in a business dispute. The 2016s are the third vintage for him and his son Callum under the Powell & Son label. Many of the vineyard sources are similar to those he worked with previously, but there’s no doubt Callum has had an impact on the style of the wines, as they’re definitively not Torbreck. The changes are subtle, but there’s a finer eye on the oak and gentle extraction, all in pursuit of intricacy and detail in the finished wines. “It’s been crucial for me to have Callum come in and give another perspective,” said Powell. The stars of the lineup are the Steinert and Kraehe Shirazes, very different expressions from very different sites, but it is impossible to go wrong with any of the latest releases.”

    Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate (238)

    In Stock

  • Powell & Son Barossa Roussanne/Marsanne 2017

    £44.99

    “A blend of 60% Roussanne (fermented and aged in steel) and 40% Marsanne (fermented and aged in barrique), the 2017 Roussanne-Marsanne features scents of toasted almond, pineapple and melon. It’s medium to full-bodied, plush and rich without being heavy or oily. There’s a honeyed note on the finish, but that’s balanced by a lively dose of lime. I’d drink this in the next few years. Drink: 2018-2021. 92 points

    Dave Powell was the founding winemaker at Torbreck (1994), where he single-handedly built the brand into a major player before being ousted in a business dispute. The 2016s are the third vintage for him and his son Callum under the Powell & Son label. Many of the vineyard sources are similar to those he worked with previously, but there’s no doubt Callum has had an impact on the style of the wines, as they’re definitively not Torbreck. The changes are subtle, but there’s a finer eye on the oak and gentle extraction, all in pursuit of intricacy and detail in the finished wines. “It’s been crucial for me to have Callum come in and give another perspective,” said Powell. The stars of the lineup are the Steinert and Kraehe Shirazes, very different expressions from very different sites, but it is impossible to go wrong with any of the latest releases.”

    Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate (238)

    In Stock

  • Powell & Son Barossa Valley Shiraz 2016

    £31.99

    “In case you thought the Powells were only making tiny quantities of unaffordable wines, the 2016 Barossa Valley Shiraz retails for a reasonable $30 per bottle. From mostly 20- to 30-year-old vines in Marananga, it’s aged in foudre. It’s medium to full-bodied, with tar and black olive notes on opening that blossom into cherry and blueberry fruit after decanting. The tannins are fine, lingering on the silky finish. Drink: 2018-2025. 91 points

    Dave Powell was the founding winemaker at Torbreck (1994), where he single-handedly built the brand into a major player before being ousted in a business dispute. The 2016s are the third vintage for him and his son Callum under the Powell & Son label. Many of the vineyard sources are similar to those he worked with previously, but there’s no doubt Callum has had an impact on the style of the wines, as they’re definitively not Torbreck. The changes are subtle, but there’s a finer eye on the oak and gentle extraction, all in pursuit of intricacy and detail in the finished wines. “It’s been crucial for me to have Callum come in and give another perspective,” said Powell. The stars of the lineup are the Steinert and Kraehe Shirazes, very different expressions from very different sites, but it is impossible to go wrong with any of the latest releases.”

    Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate (238)

    In Stock

  • Powell & Son Brennecke Grenache 2016

    £219.99

    “The 150 cases of the 2016 Brennecke Grenache will no doubt sell out quickly. Aged in 100% new Tronçais barriques, the nose hints at woodsmoke, crushed stone and pencil shavings, while the full-bodied palate reveals crystalline-pure, bright cranberry and pie-cherry flavors. It’s surprisingly crisp, with herb and savory notes on the long, zesty finish. Although the supple tannins make this wine approachable now, I’d give it a couple of years in the cellar to better harmonize and soften. Drink: 2020-2030. 95 points

    Dave Powell was the founding winemaker at Torbreck (1994), where he single-handedly built the brand into a major player before being ousted in a business dispute. The 2016s are the third vintage for him and his son Callum under the Powell & Son label. Many of the vineyard sources are similar to those he worked with previously, but there’s no doubt Callum has had an impact on the style of the wines, as they’re definitively not Torbreck. The changes are subtle, but there’s a finer eye on the oak and gentle extraction, all in pursuit of intricacy and detail in the finished wines. “It’s been crucial for me to have Callum come in and give another perspective,” said Powell. The stars of the lineup are the Steinert and Kraehe Shirazes, very different expressions from very different sites, but it is impossible to go wrong with any of the latest releases.”

    Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate (238)

    In Stock

  • Powell & Son Kleinig Mataro 2016

    £239.99

    “There are two barrels (50 cases) of the 2016 Kleinig Mataro. Like many Barossa Mataros, it’s more red-fruited than black, with wild swirls of Provençal-like garrigue and licorice notes. Full-bodied and supple but firmly structured, with fine-grained tannins lining the finish, it should age well for a couple of decades. Drink: 2025-2040. 95 points

    Dave Powell was the founding winemaker at Torbreck (1994), where he single-handedly built the brand into a major player before being ousted in a business dispute. The 2016s are the third vintage for him and his son Callum under the Powell & Son label. Many of the vineyard sources are similar to those he worked with previously, but there’s no doubt Callum has had an impact on the style of the wines, as they’re definitively not Torbreck. The changes are subtle, but there’s a finer eye on the oak and gentle extraction, all in pursuit of intricacy and detail in the finished wines. “It’s been crucial for me to have Callum come in and give another perspective,” said Powell. The stars of the lineup are the Steinert and Kraehe Shirazes, very different expressions from very different sites, but it is impossible to go wrong with any of the latest releases.”

    Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate (238)

    In Stock

  • Glaetzer Anaperenna 2019

    £41.99

    “The 2019 Anaperenna Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon is an 84-16 blend, all sourced from the northern end of the Barossa Valley. Bottled in October 2020 and scheduled to be released in October 2021, it features lovely lift and delicate herbal nuances on the nose, plus hints of red and black currants and blackberries. Full-bodied and supple, it’s also crisp, long and velvety on the finish, picking up delicious nuances of vanilla, dark chocolate and bright, fresh fruit. Drink: 2023-2035. 95 points

    My thanks to Ben Glaetzer for staying up late to chat via Zoom about his 2019 wines. All of the grapes for Glaetzer come from the Ebenezer district of the Barossa—just six growers in total (largely Hoffmann and Roehr). So, not only do the Glaetzer wines offer a taste of Ben’s winemaking, they also provide a sense of place that goes beyond just “Barossa Valley.” Although Glaetzer describes the 2019 vintage in generally positive terms, he didn’t make his luxury wine, Eye of Ra, this year. The 2016 version, previously reviewed, will be released in October, and there is a 2018 waiting in the wings (and very probably a 2021 as well).”

    Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate (256)

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