“I hope the producers in the east don’t take this the wrong way, but as a West Aussie, it is a heartening and thrilling thing to witness such beauty in Chenin Blanc here from McLaren Vale. The area is so suited, it surprises me there aren’t more great ones made. The only other that comes to mind is Aphelion. Two-thirds of the grapes from the newly acquired vineyard in Blewitt Springs were crushed and fermented in concrete fermenters, the other third was whole-bunch pressed and fermented in old 500-liter puncheons. Took a long time for it to chart its course over the year. The 2021 Mmad Vineyard Chenin Blanc matured on the lees, left cold and untouched for quite a long time. In the mouth, this has soapstone, green apple and cheesecloth. The acidity is briny and fine, with a lanolin character that is woven throughout the palate. It has a fabulous texture in the mouth—this is wonderfully typically Australian, distinctly different from South Africa and Loire. It has a brilliant intensity of flavor, purity, concentration, poise and shape. Very good. There are notes of white peach, pear, waxy grip. Awesome. It will be better in time, too. Drink: 2022-2032. 94+ points”
“The Mmad Vineyard is an interesting project headed up by Martin Shaw, Michael Hill-Smith MW, Adam Wadewitz and David Le Mire MW (Martin, Michael, Adam, David—the acronym is obvious). The goal was to find a high-quality vineyard to purchase in McLaren Vale, specifically Blewitt Springs. When this vineyard finally became available, they pounced: the real story is more nuanced than that, but all you need is the gist. The wines are excellent and show the confluence of greatly talented wine minds and hands in the group. This 2021 Grenache is pure and layered; the silty tannins are threaded through every aspect of the fruit in the mouth. The acidity makes it almost ethereal. The wine is supple, with notes of beetroot, bloodroot and raspberry pip. Very impressive. Very fine. Nice density. Great tannins—chalky. The wine saw a combination of concrete and large format, old oak. This is a supreme first release. Drink: 2022-2032. 94 points”
“These are really smart wines, these Mmad wines. The 2021 Shiraz is elegant, fine and spicy, with a core of pure fruit. This is beautiful, very fine. It has notes of raspberry coulis, brine, restraint and blood, with density but lightness. There is also pastrami and pink peppercorn. Blewitt Springs strikes again. Drink: 2022-2032. 94 points”
