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“Thierry Glantenay’s 2015 Bourgogne Rouge is lovely, wafting from the glass with notes of smoky red cherry, cocoa and raspberries. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, supple and delicious, with a succulent core of fruit, light structuring tannins and juicy acids. This will deliver great pleasure for the best part of a decade. Drink: 2017-2027. 88 points”
William Kelley, Wine Advocate (236)
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“A lovely follow-up to the brilliant 2019, Guillot’s 2020 Bourgogne Rouge Cuvée Auguste bursts with aromas of dark berries and cherries mingled with rose petals, sweet soil tones and spices. Medium to full-bodied, ample and charming, with melting tannins and a lively, enveloping core of fruit, it will drink well on release. Drink: 2021-2025. 91 points”
William Kelley, Wine Advocate (09/22)
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“In a sense, a visit to Julien Guillot’s Domaine des Vignes du Maynes is like stepping back in time. Farmed organically since the Second World War, these vineyards have never seen pesticides or herbicides. The Guillot family also never planted clonal selections of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Gamay, preferring to keep the lower yielding local selections that have since died out elsewhere. Even the estate’s cellars are constructed on the ruins of a Roman villa. Yet for all the weight of history here, Domaine des Vignes du Maynes is also decidedly innovative. Guillot is a pioneer of biodynamics in Southern Burgundy: when he made the shift in 1998, his neighbors referred to his endeavors as “les conneries de Guillot”—”Guillot’s bullshit.” He vinifies with little or no sulfur dioxide. And he’s a darling of the so-called natural wine movement, his wines coveted by Parisian cavistes and East Coast sommeliers alike. They merit all the attention, because Guillot is far from a follower of fashion: wander through the vineyards of Cruzille in springtime, and the chances are you’ll run into him on a tractor. Complex and textural, the whites are exotic examples of white Burgundy that will surprise anyone habituated to aseptic, sterile commercial Mâcon. And the reds are superb: satiny and perfumed expressions of Pinot Noir and Gamay that disappear dangerously rapidly. This is an iconic estate in the Mâconnais, and readers shouldn’t hesitate to experience these singular wines for themselves.”
Julien Guillot, Wine Advocate (238)
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“The 2017 Bourgogne Pinot Noir bursts from the glass with a fruit-driven bouquet of cherries, raspberries and cassis. On the palate, it’s medium-bodied, tangy and melting. It should drink well out of the gates. 86-88 points
The 2017 is a lovely success for the Domaine Michel Lafarge, one of the great estates of the Côte de Beaune. As usual, these are elegant and classically proportioned wines, cut from quite old-fashioned cloth. The suppleness and purity of fruit that characterize the vintage at its best are on evidence, and the domaine’s lower appellations will drink well in their youth, but the emblematic wines will emphatically reward bottle age. Indeed, to my palate, it’s only with time that these soulful Volnays reveal the true extent of their quality. Lafarge followers will find stylistic parallels with both 2007 and 2000. And thankfully, despite some spring frost, this is a comparatively generous crop for a domaine beset with below-average harvests for the better part of a decade.”
William Kelley, Wine Advocate (01/19)
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“Notes of Anjou pear, white flowers and blanched almonds introduce Leflaive’s 2018 Bourgogne Blanc, a medium-bodied, supple and fleshy wine that’s open-knit and lively, revealing a demonstrative, giving profile that will make friends in its youth. Drink: 2021-2035. 88 points
This year, I met with Brice de La Morandière and Pierre Vincent to taste not unfinished 2019s but rather the Domaine’s 2018s from bottle—a change in the estate’s policy that I warmly encourage and support—and I found the wines showing very well indeed. As I wrote last year, while many producers along the Côte de Beaune were inclined to accept the generous yields of the 2018 as nature’s gift, arguing that Chardonnay can sustain an elevated crop without suffering dilution, de La Morandière and Vincent opted to perform an aggressive green harvest, jettisoning around 40% of the potential crop. “I’m glad we have something to show for it,” remarked de La Morandière when I complimented the concentration of the domaine’s Combettes. As usual, the wines fermented and matured in barrel before finishing their élevage in stainless steel tanks on the lees, and they were bottled under Diam with some 25 parts per million free sulfur dioxide. As is the case in Chardonnay along the Côte de Beaune in the 2018 vintage, the appellation hierarchy does make itself felt—I tend to think that low yields efface some of the disadvantages of humbler sites, whereas large crops exaggerate them—but the highest appellation bottlings here are really quite serious; and, having evoked the comparison with Leflaive’s superb 1982 vintage when I tasted them from barrel last year, I continue to think that they will blossom beautifully with bottle age.”
William Kelley, Wine Advocate (01/21)
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