Volnay


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  • Bernard & Thierry Glantenay Volnay 2019

    £64.95

    “Offering up aromas of wild berries, spices, raw cocoa and dried petals, Glantenay’s 2019 Volnay Village is medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with lively acids and a long, nicely perfumed finish. As usual, this includes two small premier cru parcels in Les Lurets and En l’Ormeau that Glantenay doesn’t vinify separately and which represent around 20% of the cuvée. 89-91 points

    Thierry Glantenay is one of the humblest, most discreet winemakers I visited in Burgundy, but that shouldn’t lead anyone to underestimate the quality of his wines, or the incremental but meaningful progress he makes every year. 2020’s initiative was to end roganage (trimming the vines) by tractor: instead, Thierry now trims by hand, with shears, letting the canopies grow higher in emulation of his upstairs neighbor in Les Rugiens, Thomas Bouley. As I wrote last year, Glantenay prefers to let temperature and alcohol do the work of extraction for him, keeping pigéage and rémontage to a minimum. He presses gently, and élevage, without racking until the mise en bouteille, takes place in at most 30% new barrels. I’d nominate these 2019s as Glantenay’s finest vintage since 2015, and they are very promising wines that still carry a much more modest tariff than a number of producers who don’t work as well in the vineyards or the cellar.

    William Kelley, Wine Advocate (01/21)

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  • Bernard & Thierry Glantenay Volnay Premier Cru Clos des Chenes 2016

    £79.99

    “The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chenes comprises only older, 80-year-old vines that were whole bunch, around one-third of the blend, and the younger vines that were destemmed. It has quite a spicy nose with hints of Moroccan spices filtering through the red and black fruit and hints of sandalwood and sage. The palate is very poised on the entry with fine but firm tannin that lends it a Pommard-like personality. I like the salinity of this Volnay that gets the saliva glands flowing, crisp with an oyster shell finish that is not persistent but just very precise. It just needs a little more finesse to develop with time. Drink: 2020-2035. 90-92 points

    “We lost between 70% and 80% of volume in 2016 because of the frost,” Thierry Glantenay tells me as we taste in his house above the winery, a view of the panorama across the Jura and the Alps beyond obscured by winter mist. This is a winemaker who has been through so much in recent years, and yet he never lets it get to his equanimous personality. “In Volnay Brouillauds, where we have a hectare, we cropped nothing. We made a Volnay Village that includes one-third of the premier cru fruit from Brouillards, Les Lurets and L’Ormeau, and the rest comprises the village cru. For the Bourgogne Rouge there are just three barrels, whereas in 2017 there are 21. Fortunately some crus suffered less such as Volnay Caillerets and Pommard Rugiens. At the beginning there was serious mildew pressure but the weather became warm and dry and limited the attack. I am 80% organic but I used treatments around the time of flowering to make sure I had some crop. It was difficult for the morale working in the vines. We started the picking on 23 September and then picked over six days. The average yield was around 13 hectoliters per hectare although fortunately the major loss was with the generic red Burgundy instead of the premier crus. The vinification was normal. We did not have a lot of second-generation grapes when we went through the vineyard again one week later, but the first-generation grapes were very healthy, with good maturity. I did less whole bunch addition in 2016 than in 2015 because I did not want to take the risk with stems that might not be fully lignified.” Following Glantenay for several years now, I have always liked their approach to winemaking. It is such a pity that they have been scuppered by hail and now frost, yet there are always excellent wines to be found and 2016 is no different, particularly two of the surviving Volnay premier crus, Santenots and Caillerets. Fortunately his 2017 is more plentiful, Thierry mentioning that instead of the 9,000 bottles the domaine produced in 2016 there are almost 30,000 in 2017. Then again, that just illuminates the dearth of wines this year so grab what you can.”

    Neal Martin, Wine Advocate (234)

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  • Bernard & Thierry Glantenay Volnay Premier Cru Les Brouillards 2019

    £79.95

    “The 2019 Volnay Les Brouillards 1er Cru, which includes around 25% whole bunch fruit, has an open and transparent nose of brambly red fruit laced with sous-bois. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red berry fruit laced with graphite. This is taut and fresh, a Volnay belying the warmth of the growing season with a vivacious, limestone-driven finish. Classic in style, this Volnay should give 15-20 years at drinking pleasure. Drinking windo: 2022-2040. 91-93 points

    Whenever I visit this domaine, I stop to admire the panorama from the top of Clos des Ducs, almost a 180-degree view across towards Mont Blanc over 200km away that becomes visible on a clear day. I have been visiting Glantenay for a number of years and have always found Thierry Glantenay a softly spoken and self-effacing winemaker. “The 2019 vintage was quite special,” he told me in his first-floor kitchen as his daughter returned from school. “It was warm and dry but there were two heat waves at the end of June and end of July that reduced quantity due to burned berries, especially in Santenots. I have slightly less alcohol, on average half a degree less than in 2018, but with more opulence and freshness. I started the harvest on 13 September and finished around a week later, everything picked in a logical order. The Village Crus are completely de-stemmed with partial whole bunch addition for the Premier Crus. The new oak is between 15% and 30%.” This was a fine set of wines crowed by a superb Volnay Clos des Chênes, a vineyard that performed strongly in this vintage, though the winemaker himself has a soft spot for the Caillerets. Readers should also seek out Glantenay’s Volnay Brouillard, an often over-looked and under-estimated Premier Cru.”

    William Kelley, Wine Advocate (12/20)

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  • Bernard & Thierry Glantenay Volnay Premier Cru Les Santenots 2017

    £74.95

    “The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots is showing very well from bottle, wafting from the glass with aromas of raspberries, wild berries, dark chocolate and burning embers. Medium to full-bodied, ample and enveloping, it’s supple and lively, framed by powdery tannins. This has developed nicely and will offer a broad drinking window. Drink: 2022-2045. 92 points

    As I wrote last year, the disarmingly modest Thierry Glantenay produces a lovely range of elegant, pure and intense Volnays and Pommards at his hillside winery overlooking the Marquis d’Angerville’s Clos des Ducs. In the cuverie, he tells me, he is more and more content to let temperature and alcohol do the work of extraction for him, keeping pigéage and rémontage to a minimum. He also gently presses the grapes, and élevage, without racking until the mise en bouteille, takes place in at most 30% new barrels. His 2018s have turned out very well, delivering generous, textural wines that remain structurally refined and lively—wines that will drink well young but also age gracefully. This under-the-radar estate comes warmly recommended.”

    William Kelley, Wine Advocate (02/20)

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  • Bernard Moreau Volnay Premier Cru Caillerets 2020

    £120.00

    Review to follow

    In Stock

  • Bernard Moreau Volnay Premier Cru Santenots 2019

    £74.95

    “Aromas of orange rind, plums, peonies and sweet spices preface the 2019 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots, a medium to full-bodied, velvety and sumptuous wine that’s deep and sapid, underpinned by lively acids and powdery tannins. 91-93 points

    Between the spring frost and a protracted flowering, Alex Moreau reported that yields at this address were appreciably diminished, ranging from a decidedly low 25 hectoliters per hectare to a moderate 40. Harvest began here on September 7, and alcohols top out at 13.4%. Fermentations were a little fast for Alex’s liking, but this is once again a superb range, meriting a place in any well-stocked Burgundy cellar. Serious and concentrated, these 2019s evoke the domaine’s 2015s, but if anything they’re even better balanced. An unusually hurried schedule, compressed by France’s second COVID-19 lockdown, precluded revisiting the bottled 2018s, an oversight that will be remedied later this year—from my own cellar, if necessary. In any case, as ever, any wine bearing the Moreau label comes warmly recommended.

    William Kelley, Wine Advocate (01/21)

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  • Jean Javillier Volnay 2021

    £41.95

    “Domaine Jean Javillier & Fils is the sort of estate that this wine critic dreams of discovering. Hiding in plain site equidistant between the premises of Coche-Dury and Roulot, this small domaine—producing a mere 20,000 bottles per year—does everything the old fashioned way. Farming vineyards that have never seen chemicals and which have been certified organic since 1971, Alain Javillier favors massal selections: “We tried clones in the past, but they are not as good; I’m only going to let you taste wines made from massal selections.” Reds and whites alike are harvested in small crates, with whites pressed in an old Vaslin mechanical press. The musts are chilled to 15 degrees Celsius, and Alain tastes the lees when barreling down. Twelve months maturation in barrel and four in tank ensue, followed by bottling by hand, by gravity. Reds, by contrast, ferment without temperature control, and only free-run juice is used. The result is chewy, structured whites with plenty of texture and dry extract and sumptuous, supple and exquisitely elegant reds. “Some people tell me I make red wine for girls,” Javillier remarks. The inspiration here is sound: the white and red Burgundies of the 1940s. How much longer can such methods endure? “Now everyone works faster and faster, we have more and more Chardonnay, less and less Meursault,” Javillier poignantly observes. Indeed, so unspoiled is this domaine, I hesitated to write about it. But any readers nostalgic for the wines of yesteryear, before the stylistic excesses of the 1990s and the subsequent reaction against them, will find them at this address.”

    William Kelley, Wine Advocate (07/21)

    In Stock

  • Jean Javillier Volnay Premier Cru Caillerets 2021

    £56.95

    “As I wrote only a few months ago, Domaine Jean Javillier & Fils is the sort of estate that this wine critic dreams of discovering. Hiding in plain sight equidistant between the premises of Coche-Dury and Roulot, this small domaine—producing a mere 20,000 bottles per year—does everything the old-fashioned way. Farming vineyards that have never seen chemicals and which have been certified organic since 1971, Alain Javillier favors massal selections: “We tried clones in the past, but they are not as good; I’m only going to let you taste wines made from massal selections.” Reds and whites alike are harvested in small crates, with whites pressed in an old Vaslin mechanical press. The musts are chilled to 15 degrees Celsius, and Alain tastes the lees when barreling down. Twelve months maturation in barrel and four in tank ensue, followed by bottling by hand, by gravity. Reds, by contrast, ferment without temperature control, and only free-run juice is used. The result is chewy, structured whites with plenty of texture and dry extract and sumptuous, supple and exquisitely elegant reds. “Some people tell me I make red wine for girls,” Javillier remarks. The inspiration here is sound: the white and red Burgundies of the 1940s. How much longer can such methods endure? “Now everyone works faster and faster, we have more and more Chardonnay, less and less Meursault,” Javillier poignantly observes. Indeed, so unspoiled is this domaine, I hesitated to write about it. But any readers nostalgic for the wines of yesteryear, before the stylistic excesses of the 1990s and the subsequent reaction against them, will find them at this address.

    William Kelley, Wine Advocate (01/22)

    In Stock

  • Jean Javillier Volnay Premier Cru Clos des Chenes 2021

    £54.95

    “As I wrote only a few months ago, Domaine Jean Javillier & Fils is the sort of estate that this wine critic dreams of discovering. Hiding in plain sight equidistant between the premises of Coche-Dury and Roulot, this small domaine—producing a mere 20,000 bottles per year—does everything the old-fashioned way. Farming vineyards that have never seen chemicals and which have been certified organic since 1971, Alain Javillier favors massal selections: “We tried clones in the past, but they are not as good; I’m only going to let you taste wines made from massal selections.” Reds and whites alike are harvested in small crates, with whites pressed in an old Vaslin mechanical press. The musts are chilled to 15 degrees Celsius, and Alain tastes the lees when barreling down. Twelve months maturation in barrel and four in tank ensue, followed by bottling by hand, by gravity. Reds, by contrast, ferment without temperature control, and only free-run juice is used. The result is chewy, structured whites with plenty of texture and dry extract and sumptuous, supple and exquisitely elegant reds. “Some people tell me I make red wine for girls,” Javillier remarks. The inspiration here is sound: the white and red Burgundies of the 1940s. How much longer can such methods endure? “Now everyone works faster and faster, we have more and more Chardonnay, less and less Meursault,” Javillier poignantly observes. Indeed, so unspoiled is this domaine, I hesitated to write about it. But any readers nostalgic for the wines of yesteryear, before the stylistic excesses of the 1990s and the subsequent reaction against them, will find them at this address.

    William Kelley, Wine Advocate (01/22)

    In Stock

  • Jean Javillier Volnay Grappes Entieres 2020

    £37.95

    “Domaine Jean Javillier & Fils is the sort of estate that this wine critic dreams of discovering. Hiding in plain site equidistant between the premises of Coche-Dury and Roulot, this small domaine—producing a mere 20,000 bottles per year—does everything the old fashioned way. Farming vineyards that have never seen chemicals and which have been certified organic since 1971, Alain Javillier favors massal selections: “We tried clones in the past, but they are not as good; I’m only going to let you taste wines made from massal selections.” Reds and whites alike are harvested in small crates, with whites pressed in an old Vaslin mechanical press. The musts are chilled to 15 degrees Celsius, and Alain tastes the lees when barreling down. Twelve months maturation in barrel and four in tank ensue, followed by bottling by hand, by gravity. Reds, by contrast, ferment without temperature control, and only free-run juice is used. The result is chewy, structured whites with plenty of texture and dry extract and sumptuous, supple and exquisitely elegant reds. “Some people tell me I make red wine for girls,” Javillier remarks. The inspiration here is sound: the white and red Burgundies of the 1940s. How much longer can such methods endure? “Now everyone works faster and faster, we have more and more Chardonnay, less and less Meursault,” Javillier poignantly observes. Indeed, so unspoiled is this domaine, I hesitated to write about it. But any readers nostalgic for the wines of yesteryear, before the stylistic excesses of the 1990s and the subsequent reaction against them, will find them at this address.”

    William Kelley, Wine Advocate (07/21)

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  • Marquis d’Angerville Volnay Premier Cru Champans 2018

    £109.95

    “The 2018 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru has an outgoing bouquet similar to the Taillepieds, albeit one with more intellectual weight and gravitas behind it. Black cherries, blueberry and light cassis aromas reveal crushed stone and undergrowth notes, all delivered with intensity and superb delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly firmer, stockier tannins than the Taillepieds, darker fruit and grainier texture toward the persistent finish. I see this has having real long-term potential. Excellent. Drinking window: 2023-2050. 93-95 points

    “It was a pretty uneventful and easy season,” a typically sanguine Guillaume d’Angerville told me, as we tasted his 2018s in the ground floor tasting room within his maison that lies within Clos des Ducs. “There was an early flowering around 20 May. There was no significant mildew pressure and the vines reacted better than expected during the dry conditions. They are getting accustomed to it. They didn’t seem to suffer. We started the harvest early on 1 September. You know, the eight most precocious years have all been since I took over the Domaine from my father in 2003. We finished the picking after around five days. The vinification was unusual as the sugar levels were high for the yeasts to work efficiently and so a couple of malos took place during the alcoholic fermentation, which was not healthy for the yeast. So getting the wine to complete dryness was the challenge. Everything is de-stemmed, though for Volnay Frémiets I use a single 80 hectoliter vat and we ended up with more volume than that. So we used an additional smaller vat and in this we used 50% whole bunch that will be included in the final blend.”

    Neal Martin, Vinous (01/20)

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