Saumur


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  • Thierry Germain Saumur Blanc Clos Romans 2021

    £54.95

    “The 2021 Clos Romans’ peaceful entry starts as it it has repented for its sins, but don’t be fooled: this dry style has a fierce arrow-like line of acidity and tension penetrating the wine’s core. In its precise and tense youth, this aromatically restrained wine offers subtle florals, quince and lees-derived notes, but it needs time to unfurl, relax and blossom. Drinking window: 2025-2040. 94 points

    Thierry Germain might be a Bordelais by birth, but having ended up in Saumur Champigny “par hasard”, he is now one of the appellation’s leading lights. The range of wines from Domaine des Roches Neuves has the transparency, delicacy and ease you encounter too infrequently. Red wine represents the majority of production at this estate, with vineyards scattered around the appellation, but a lightness of touch and purity of fruit are common threads no matter the soil type or orientation. Even at the ‘entry-level’ Saumur Champigny, whose label changes color every year just to keep us confused, the hands-off hand of Germain is clear. You’re sure to be indoctrinated in the ways of biodynamics if you encounter the affable Germain, but whatever your thoughts on this farming, the results speak for themselves. You’ll find the wines on the market comparatively early. “A wine that is young should be good all its life – you shouldn’t have to wait five years; it’s like missing the first five years of a child’s life.””

    Rebecca Gibb, Vinous (10/23)

    In Stock

  • Thierry Germain Saumur Blanc L’Insolite 2019

    £26.49

    “Much of the finest Cabernet Franc from Saumur-Champigny is being now made by Thierry Germain at Domaine des Roches Neuves. After growing up at his family’s Château Yon-Figeac, in Saint-Émilion, Germain arrived in Loire from Bordeaux in 1991. He immediately became a leader in organic viticulture. By 1998, he was farming organically and by 2002 he had the first certified biodynamic vineyards in Saumur-Champigny. (Now a third of the vineyards in the appellation are organic.) Germain suggests that his farming has transcended science at this point: “Three years ago, I stopped all analysis, because it takes out all my emotion.” Currently, the estate is 28 hectares, with red wine making up about 85% of the 120,000 bottles annually produced. “Cabernet Franc is a rustic variety,” Germain said. “It’s vegetal, it’s volatile and it’s important to work around that. For me, Cabernet Franc over 14% loses all freshness and typicity. After 14% you lose the terroir.” The elegance, precision and purity of Germain’s Cabernet Franc is something else entirely, almost Burgundian. “It’s all about balance,” he said.”

    Jason Wilson, Vinous (07/20)

    In Stock

  • Thierry Germain Saumur-Champigny Les Memoires 2021

    £43.49

    “From vines planted on clay-limestone in 1904, the 2021 Les Mémoires is fragrant, refined and long. It offers up rich concentration within an elegant, rather delicate package. As you’d expect from a wine of this age, it’s youthful and bright, with primary fruit aromas of redcurrant alongside florals, black olive and even a whiff of wood smoke. There’s certainly depth and substance of tannin, but they melt in your mouth. The finish is refined and assured, with scintillating acidity providing a fabulous backbone. Drinking window: 2024-2038. 94 points

    Thierry Germain might be a Bordelais by birth, but having ended up in Saumur Champigny “par hasard”, he is now one of the appellation’s leading lights. The range of wines from Domaine des Roches Neuves has the transparency, delicacy and ease you encounter too infrequently. Red wine represents the majority of production at this estate, with vineyards scattered around the appellation. Still, a lightness of touch and purity of fruit are common threads, no matter the soil type or orientation. Even at the ‘entry-level’ Saumur Champigny, whose label changes color every year just to keep us confused, the hands-off hand of Germain is clear. You’re sure to be indoctrinated in the ways of biodynamics if you encounter the affable Germain, but whatever your thoughts on this farming, the results speak for themselves.

    While Louis Germain, Thierry’s son, called 2021 a nightmare, the resulting wines are some of the best in the region: charming, balanced and delicately poised. But that should be expected from this domaine.”

    Rebecca Gibb, Vinous (01/24)

    In Stock