Alto Adige

“The 2021 Sauvignon Blanc Winkl is intense, with a boisterous mix of sour grapefruit, tangerine, ginger and savory herbs. It’s juicy yet salty in character, with vibrant acids accelerating its notes of tart melon and sour apple. This tapers off with a bitter twang of citrus and exotic floral tones and leaves the palate crisply refreshed. Drinking window: 2022-2026. 90 points

From top to bottom, the Terlano portfolio continues to be one of the brightest shining stars within Alto Adige. The Tradition line is priced remarkably well for the value it represents, seeking to provide a pure expression of variety and terroir. Readers can get a very good feel for the region and house style of these crisp, transparent yet wholly satisfying wines. As you work your way up to the Sauvignon Blanc Quarz and Winkl, you’ll find a deep and prestigious expression of the varietal from the first and a younger yet richer and easier drinking one from the latter. The Pinot Bianco Riserva Vorberg seems to be fighting to compete with the best whites of Burgundy. If I had to point out any weak point in the portfolio, it would be the two Lagreins, yet this is splitting hairs as these deep expressions simply don’t communicate their price point to me; that said, I’d never turn down a glass. The real highlight of their portfolio is their Terlaner blends. At the entry level, the Terlaner Cuvée, is a serious wine that over-delivers. The Terlaner range blends Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc to varying degrees, starting with the Terlaner Riserva Nova Domus, a showstopper, and then moving up to the Terlaner Grande Cuvée Primo, which can compete with some of the top white wines around the world. How do they age, you might ask? Just take a look at the late release and limited Rarity portfolio (2008 Terlaner and 2009 Terlaner Riserva Nova Domus current vintages). These wines were vinified and refined for one year in large oak before being placed into a steel tank (2,500 liters) and allowed to mature on the lees for ten years or more. In fact, drinking their top wines young is a total disservice to what winemaker Rudi Kofler and his team have created at this bastion of tradition. If there was one stop to make while visiting the region that could give you a real sense of the Alto Adige experience, Terlano is it.”

Eric Guido, Vinous (06/22)