Barolo


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    Roagna Barolo del Comune di Barolo 2014

    £69.95

    “The 2014 Barolo del Comune di Barolo is a gorgeous entry-level wine in Luca Roagna’s range. Sweet spice, tobacco, dried rose petal, orange peel, menthol and pine give the 2014 a distinctly balsamic profile that is hugely appealing. Medium in body, yet potent and classically austere (as these wines tend to be), the 2014 is supremely delicious. The bouquet alone is incredibly enticing. The Barolo del Comune di Barolo is made entirely from a small parcel in the Terlo cru, but Luca Roagna does not own the site, so he prefers to bottle it under the village designation rather than as a vineyard designate. The 2014 is a real overachiever in its peer group for the year. I loved it. Drinking window: 2020-2029. 92 points

    This is an extraordinary set of wines from Luca Roagna. The 2014 Barbarescos are superb, while the Barolos are very good, especially considering the vintage was much more challenging in Barolo than it was in Barbaresco. A stunning rendition of the flagship Barbaresco Crichët Pajè rounds out the range. Readers will see new Barbaresco bottlings from Gallina, Faset and Albesani in the range this year. As always, the wines are super-classic in feel. Over the last years, Roagna has quietly shortened the amount of time his wines spend in cask and began introducing cement in the cellar. Today’s wines have a sense of fruit purity and inner sweetness that the older wines often did not. I can’t recommend these wines highly enough.”

    Antonio Galloni, Vinous (11/19)

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  • Scarzello Barolo del Comune di Barolo 2017

    £48.95

    Barolo. Grapes come from the Sarmassa and Terlo crus. About 25 days on the skins (normally this is around 50 days), and no ‘cappello sommerso’ (submerged cap), but pumping over only. Aged in 25-hl casks for 20 months.

    Lustrous and just mid ruby. Earthy, minerally, sweet cherry with an undertow of mace and Amaro (herb liqueur). Supple, expressive cherry fruit with muscular, but well-behaved tannins. Very long and with lots of juice on the finish. Drink: 2022-2030. 17 points”

    Walter Speller, JancisRobinson.com (12/20)

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  • Scarzello Barolo Sarmassa Vigna Merenda 2017

    £69.95

    “Barolo. Just mid ruby and youthful-looking. Exciting nose of raspberry and cherry with hints of oatmeal, black pepper and iron. Amazing depth of focused fruit. Succulent cherry fruit with a layer of fine, polished tannins. Very long and finely balanced and almost unrecognisable as a product of the torrid 2017 vintage. Oozes class. Drink: 2021-2034. 17.5 points”

    Walter Speller, JancisRobinson.com (11/20)

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  • Aldo Conterno Barolo Bussia 2017

    £74.99

    “The Poderi Aldo Conterno 2017 Barolo Bussia shows a dark but busy quality of fruit that speaks more to the power of this hot vintage than it does the nuanced side of Nebbiolo. In this respect, the wine is quite typical of the 2017 growing season. It takes a while before the wine finds focus in the glass, but it does slowly come together to reveal broad layers of dark cherry, cassis and plum. There is some tannic tightness that leads to sour berry. A bit awkward at this young stage, it needs a few more years of cellar age to flesh out and reach balance. Drink: 2023-2038. 92 points”

    Monica Larner, Wine Advocate (06/21)

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  • Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2013

    £119.99

    “The 2013 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe is fabulous. The aromatics alone are thrilling. This is what Barolo is all about. Rose petal, holiday spice cake, leather, blood orange and macerated cherry abound. Silky and powerful, the 2013 shows tons of density on the palate and yet remains light on its feet for such a big wine. The wine’s sensuality offers a mirage of accessibility, but the 2013 is best cellared for at least a handful of years. There is nothing like Barolo, and this is a terrific example. The 2013 saw 36-38 days on the skins followed by five years in cask, with a preference for larger and more neutral oak that allows for a more gradual pace of aging in the cellar than smaller casks. Drink: 2028-2048. 96 points

    This is an impressive set of Barolos from Cavallotto. All three wines are worth your attention. The Bricco Boschis is more refined than in the past, while the two 2013 Riservas are two fabulous examples from a vintage that is truly a modern-day classic along the lines of the great vintages of prior decades. As always, the Cavallotto wines are vinified in horizonal rotary fermenters on a very slow cycle that allow for what Alfio Cavallotto describes as “50% submerged-cap fermentation.” In structured vintages, like 2013 and 2016 time on the skins is in the 30+ days range. Aging is entirely in cask. The only other major development here is that copper, which is used to treat peronospera, has not been eliminated. Cavallotto told me he believe this has resulted in slightly thinner skins in the fruit.”

    Antonio Galloni, Vinous (06/20)

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  • Ferdinando Principiano Barolo Boscareto 2016

    £71.99

    “The 2016 Barolo Boscareto is laced with crushed raspberry, cinnamon, orange peel and mint. Medium in body and delicate, the 2016 is enticing. Readers should expect a perfumed, gracious Barolo that shows an ethereal side of Serralunga that is quite unique. Drinking window: 2024-2034. 92 points”

    Antonio Galloni, Vinous (02/21)

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  • Luigi Baudana Barolo Baudana 2015

    £64.99

    “The 2015 Barolo Baudana is powerful, ample and deep, with tons of brightness to play off the sweet red cherry and pomegranate fruit. Already quite expressive, the 2015 appears to have a very bright future. Even today, its balance is simply impeccable. Within the context of the year, the 2015 Baudana is one of the most polished refined wines readers will taste. Drinking window: 2022-2044. 94+ points

    The Vajra family continues to do remarkable work in revitalizing the Baudana estate. The appellation Barolo is gorgeous, while the two vineyard designates are both distinctive, as they should be. Stylistically, the wines are bigger and more overt than the Barolos the Vajras make at their G.D. Vajra estate. Then again, here we are in Serralunga.”

    Antonio Galloni, Vinous (02/19)

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  • Massolino Barolo Margheria 2015

    £69.99

    “Massolino’s 2015 Barolo Margheria is a powerful, driven wine that shows the sinewy muscles of Serralunga off to great effect. Dark red cherry, plum, iron, sage, smoke, white pepper and rose petal open up in the glass, but the Margheria is a wine of structure, power and depth, its mid-weight feel notwithstanding. As is often the case, the Margheria is a beguiling wine that shows the flavor and textural complexity Nebbiolo can reach in Piedmont’s top sites. Drinking window: 2023-2040. 93+ points

    Brothers Franco and Roberto Massolino turned out a gorgeous set of 2015 Barolos. The Massolinos gave the 2015s about 21 days on the skins. Both primary and secondary fermentation were done in cement, and the wines were aged in cask. More than those details, though, these Barolos stand out because they are very expressive to site, something that was not easy to achieve in 2015.”

    Antonio Galloni, Vinous (02/19)

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  • Massolino Barolo Parafada 2016

    £71.49

    “The 2016 Barolo Parafada is fabulous. In fact, the 2016 is one of the best – if not the best – Parafadas I have ever tasted at Massolino. The natural richness of this site marries with the translucence of the year to produce a weightless yet powerful, highly nuanced Barolo that hits all the right notes. Dark cherry, lavender, spice, mint, rose petal and licorice develop in the glass, but it is the interplay of richness and lightness that elevates the Parafada into the realm of the truly sublime. I have never tasted a Parafada like this here. What a wine! Drinking window: 2026-2041. 96 points

    Massolino turned out set of striking Barolos in 2016. The wines are vibrant and super-expressive of site. In recent years, the Massolinos have moved towards gentler winemaking, which really allows the purity of the fruit, while retaining the classic style the estate is known for. Readers will also want to be on the lookout for the 2014 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda, one of the great wines of that year, but also one of the most profound Rionds Massolino has made to date.”

    Antonio Galloni, Vinous (02/20)

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  • Massolino Barolo Parussi 2015

    £69.99

    “The 2015 Barolo Parussi is the most powerful and immediate of the Massolino 2015 Barolos. Dark cherry, plum, lavender, menthol, spice, tar and licorice fill out the wine’s ample frame effortlessly. In this range, the Parussi is also the Barolo that most clearly shows the natural richness of the year, and it does so to great effect. Plush, sensual and inviting, the 2015 will drink well with minimal cellaring, although time in bottle will only help. Drinking window: 2022-2040. 93 points

    Brothers Franco and Roberto Massolino turned out a gorgeous set of 2015 Barolos. The Massolinos gave the 2015s about 21 days on the skins. Both primary and secondary fermentation were done in cement, and the wines were aged in cask. More than those details, though, these Barolos stand out because they are very expressive to site, something that was not easy to achieve in 2015.”

    Antonio Galloni, Vinous (02/19)

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  • Massolino Barolo Vigna Rionda 2015

    £143.95

    “The 2015 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda is a magnificent wine that shows all the magic this site is so famous for. All the Rionda signatures open in the glass. Sweet dark cherry/plum, lavender, spice, mint and pine meld together in a sensual, beautifully layered Barolo that pushes all the right buttons. The 2015 is going to need a few years to soften, but it is undeniably vivid and arresting in its sheer allure. Drinking window: 2025-2042. 96 points

    Massolino’s 2017s are impressive. The Parafada is a bit closed at this stage, but the other 2017s are terrific. One of the recent developments here has been a move towards fermenting in open-top wood vats. It’s hard to say what role that has had with just a few vintages to look at, but the bigger picture is that these wines have never been more finessed. Readers will also want to check out the 2015 Rionda, a Barolo that I think will be even better in a few years’ time.”

    Antonio Galloni, Vinous (02/21)

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  • Oddero Barolo Rocche di Castiglione 2017

    £86.49

    “The 2017 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione is a beautiful wine that captures the natural intensity of the year while maintaining the style of the site. Silky aromatic and wonderfully nuanced the 2017 Rocche di Castiglione has so much to offer. Lavender, rose petal, spice and kirsch are some of the notes that meld together in this open-knit, inviting Barolo from Oddero. Drinking window: 2025-2042. 93 points”

    Antonio Galloni, Vinous (02/21)

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