Montalcino

“Dark and animal in nature, the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino comes to life like a savage beast waking from a deep sleep, sleek yet still shaking off its slumber. Purple-tinged florals and herbal tones meet depths of dark mineral-tinged fruits and hints of animal musk. This is silky-smoofh upon entry, yet it quickly gains in tension and poise, as grippy tannins come to the fore, slowly drying fhe tart wild berry fruits, while becoming spicy and more grippy with every sip. The cheeks pucker with residual tannic tension as this finishes painfully young yet long, with hints of licorice. The extra time in bottle has only propelled the 2016 even further than expected. Drinking window: 2026-2038. 96 points

You don’t feel like you’re pulling up to a Brunello producer’s “estate” as you approach the Baricci homestead. Instead, what you see is a small house surrounded by a thick foliage, with large garage doors that open up into their cramped yet cozy and wholly traditional winery. On the other side of this home is the famed Montosoli hill, which lifts up like an island amongst a sea that is the northern hillside of Montalcino. When looking at Montosoli from the town, it appears almost as a mirage in the midst of a thick forest. What is also apparent is the mark of terroir, as you imagine the sea that once engulfed this region, and how the contours of Montosoli would morph into its unique soils of rock, mineral-rich marls, loam, quartz, shale and limestone with marine fossil strewn throughout. The family’s fifteen hectares are considered the choice parcel of the hill, ranging up to 280 meters in elevation and enjoying a south-to-southeast exposure. This location doesn’t share the deteriorating rock components from the hill of Montalcino as much of the surrounding territory does; it is uniquely its own individual terroir, and a true cru of the region.

Long before the concept of a cru or the fame of Montosoli was confirmed, Nello Baricci realized that this was a very special location, and when the time came that this son of sharecroppers could afford his own land, it was this location that he chose. Today, it is the third generation, Federico Buffi, who cares for the vines and raises these wines using the teachings of his grandfather; and I can assure you that Nello Baricci, who passed away in 2017, would be very proud. The Baricci wines speak of the soul of Montalcino, as well as the terroir of Montosoli. When I taste them, it’s the classicism, purity, regal tannins, depth of fruit and harmony that invokes thoughts of not just Montalcino, but the world’s greatest wines. In a truly romantic way, this family of farmers, who also happen to be winemakers, are producing some of Italy’s hidden gems. I only hope that they never change.”

Eric Guido, Vinous (12/21)

“The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Nello from Baricci boasts a strikingly intense display of pure Sangiovese fruit. It’s dusty in character, wafting up masses of crushed black cherry and strawberry, with sweet herbs, hints of spiced orange and sandalwood. It’s soft and feminine, while leaning on purity and a salty mineral lift, which creates a tactile feel toward the close. Raspberry, cranberry, savory spice and inner florals hold your attention firm, while youthful tannins slowly sink in, drying out the expression today, yet promising many good things to come. Wow! This only got better and better over the twenty-tour hours that I followed the wine. Drinking window: 2024-2034. 96 points

Federico and Francesco Buffi represent the third generation to tend to the Baricci vineyards on the Montosoli hill. They have a lot to be proud of with the release of their 2016 Brunello and 2015 Nello Riserva. Since the beginning, and I truly mean the beginning, Nello Baricci, a son of sharecroppers, spent a large portion of his life tending to the vineyards of other producers before being able to acquire his own. However, once he did, the location he chose paved the way for many of the greatest wines coming out of the region today. Baricci purchased what you might consider to be the tenderloin parcel of the highly-regarded Montosoli hill. Five hectares at an average elevation of 280 meters, which enjoy a south-to-southeastern exposure in poor stony soils. He went on to be the first producer to register his vineyard with the newly-formed Consorzio; and he then created a heritage of traditional winemaking, which guides his family to this very day. Nello Baricci passed away in 2017, yet his memory lives on in every bottle of Montosoli.

The Baricci wines scream Montalcino in every possible way. These pure yet complex expressions of Sangiovese fruit, which are deceiving in how inviting they can seem in their youth, can mature for decades. This is also one of the handful of producers who captured the magic of the 2015 vintage in their Riserva-level bottling. The Nello Riserva comes from a choice parcel within the family vineyard, or as Francesco Baricci puts it, “A cru within a cru”. This is a wine that was first created in 2010 to recognize their grandfather’s accomplishments, and it has since only been released in 2012 and now 2015. The Nello Riserva spends between 21-24 days macerating on the skins, versus the 15-18 days for the Brunello, and it then matures in five-hectoliter tonneaux for forty months. The production is quite small (between 1,800-2,000 bottles each vintage), yet this is a 2015 Riserva that’s worth seeking out. Also of note is that there will be a 2016 Nello Riserva; but it will be released in 2023, as the family feels that it will require more time in bottle to fully express itself.”

Eric Guido, Vinous (11/20)

“A vivid mix of wild strawberries, roses, hints of cinnamon and crushed rocks captivates as the 2020 Rosso di Montalcino comes to life in the glass. This is silky and refined, with depths of ripe cherry-berry fruits laced with minerals and spice that creates a sweet and sour interplay. The medium-length finish resonates on red currants and inner floral perfumes, as well as a gentle tug of tannin. This doesn’t impress on power or prestige, but instead on purity, refinement and sheer drinkability. Drinking window: 2022-2026. 91 points

The Baricci Rosso hails from the younger vines of their property, and all on the hill of Montosoli. While the wine can be enjoyed young, the best vintages also have the capacity to age over the medium term.”

Eric Guido, Vinous (01/22)

“The Caparzo 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna La Casa offers more intensity and depth next to the annata expressions (also tasted in this report). It’s not much, but there is enough of a difference to justify the special single-vineyard selection. Wild fruit, licorice and balsam herb add vertical lift to the bouquet. The magical sharpness and brightness of this wine is linked to the soils of Vigna La Casa, which are blanketed with shards of galestro schist. These soils mitigate the warm growing season. Production is 15,000 bottles. Drink: 2024-2038. 94 points

Elisabetta Gnudi Angelini is back on the wine trail following these years of COVID-19 lockdowns. With her usual energy and special simpatia, she’s working hard to create identities for the single vineyards she farms, such as Caparzo’s Vigna La Casa and Altesino’s Montosoli. I should be able to report more on these two sites in a few months (with a special video spotlight I hope to prepare). Stay tuned.”

Monica Larner, Wine Advocate (02/22)

“”An alluring, spicy and dusty mix of cherry and raspberry preserves, crushed stone and dusty flowers is lifted by cedar shavings and dried citrus peels as the majestic 2017 Brunello di Montalcino blossoms in the glass. This is fleshy yet delicate in feel, displaying pure ripe red berry fruit, nicely contrasted by salty mineral tones, and lacking only a bit of midpalate depth that might take it to the next level. It tapers off long while leaving the mouth watering for more, as a gentle tug of tannin slowly fades under rosy inner florals. Andrea Costanti didn’t produce a Riserva in 2017, and so all of that juice was used to try to bolster the Brunello. From what I’ve tasted, I’d say he succeeded. Drinking window: 2024-2029. 93 points

Just a short drive down the southern hill from the town of Montalcino, you’ll find the Costanti winery, where Andrea Costanti continues to produce some of the most deeply seductive, yet truly classic expressions of Brunello from vintage to vintage. While steeped in tradition, it was a welcome breath of fresh air to hear his thoughts on Montalcino’s need for better zoning, stating, “In my opinion, it is not acceptable that a significant area like Montalcino hasn’t had it.” For his vineyards, it’s the high elevations from 433 to 471 meters, large diurnal temperature swings between day and night and galestro soils that make this terroir special. Costanti spoke of those cooling nighttime temperatures as being vital during the hot 2017 vintage. When all was said and done, his production numbers didn’t suffer much, while all of the Riserva juice was added to the Brunello. The Riserva of this house is a selection from each vintage that starts its first year of refinement in new barrels; yet as a forward-thinking producer, Andrea Costanti does not keep it any longer in wood than the Brunello annata – it’s simply aged longer in bottle before release. I personally find the Riserva of this house to have a gloss of early accessibility upon release, but to then shut down, to only re-emerge as a glorious and mature wine many years later. On this visit, the 2006, 2010 and 2012 were open to taste, which was a total pleasure. On a final note, the Rosso at this address should also be of special interest. It’s sourced from fruit in the lower and sandier soils at the base of the Montosoli hill and refined for one year in tonneaux. This is a Rosso that can easily be enjoyed in its youth or cellared over the medium term. While pulling away from the estate, after the tasting, all I could think was that Andrea Costanti is at the top of his game.”

Eric Guido, Vinous (12/21)

“A deeply sensual bouquet of freshly sliced plums, crushed violets, mentholated herbs and Tuscan dust rises up from the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. This is deeply textural while also cool-toned and refined, with mineral-tinged red and black berries cascading across a core of brisk acidity. Tension builds throughout, as grippy tannins mount toward the close, nicely contrasted by a burst of sour citrus. There’s a crystalline structure to the 2016 that tempts the imagination as to what the future will bring, and it tapers off long, youthtully poised, yet also remarkably fresh. Time will only increase the depths of the 2016 Riserva, a wine that I seriously look forward to tasting again in five to ten years. Drinking window: 2026-2042. 98 points

Just a short drive down the southern hill from the town of Montalcino, you’ll find the Costanti winery, where Andrea Costanti continues to produce some of the most deeply seductive, yet truly classic expressions of Brunello from vintage to vintage. While steeped in tradition, it was a welcome breath of fresh air to hear his thoughts on Montalcino’s need for better zoning, stating, “In my opinion, it is not acceptable that a significant area like Montalcino hasn’t had it.” For his vineyards, it’s the high elevations from 433 to 471 meters, large diurnal temperature swings between day and night and galestro soils that make this terroir special. Costanti spoke of those cooling nighttime temperatures as being vital during the hot 2017 vintage. When all was said and done, his production numbers didn’t suffer much, while all of the Riserva juice was added to the Brunello. The Riserva of this house is a selection from each vintage that starts its first year of refinement in new barrels; yet as a forward-thinking producer, Andrea Costanti does not keep it any longer in wood than the Brunello annata – it’s simply aged longer in bottle before release. I personally find the Riserva of this house to have a gloss of early accessibility upon release, but to then shut down, to only re-emerge as a glorious and mature wine many years later. On this visit, the 2006, 2010 and 2012 were open to taste, which was a total pleasure. On a final note, the Rosso at this address should also be of special interest. It’s sourced from fruit in the lower and sandier soils at the base of the Montosoli hill and refined for one year in tonneaux. This is a Rosso that can easily be enjoyed in its youth or cellared over the medium term. While pulling away from the estate, after the tasting, all I could think was that Andrea Costanti is at the top of his game.”

Eric Guido, Vinous (10/21)

“The Gaja family tends twenty-five hectares of vines between Tavernelle in the southwest of Montalcino and the Deserti area in the northeast. However, it’s only the vines in Tavernelle, a warm and dry part of Montalcino which is heavily influenced by the sea, that are used to create Rennina and the single-vineyard Brunello, Sugarille. All of the other fruit goes into making a Brunello which is not submitted for reviews and instead marketed to restaurants. While the family doesn’t have any intention of making any changes to this structure, Giovanni Gaja spoke excitedly about a recent acquisition of five hectares in Bolsignano, a valley in the southeast with a very unique microclimate from their current holdings. This parcel sits at elevations between 350-400 meters in galestro soils, with a large diurnal shift between day and nighttime temperatures. Starting with the 2019 vintage, this fruit will help fuel the estate’s Brunello; yet the area is undergoing a replanting project with another five hectares coming on board over the next few years. Ultimately, with global warming in mind, the Gaja family will now have the ability to blend fruit from both north to south and east to west, allowing them to find balance from vintage to vintage. What’s more, the winery has also begun to slowly introduce large, forty-hectoliter barrels throughout the range, with the goal of finding a balance between them and the tonneaux that they have used prior. In 2016 the Rennina was matured in a mix of 70% two-year-old large casks, with only 30% in tonneaux, while the Sugarille was matured in a mix of 60% two-year-old large casks, with only 40% in tonneaux. In the end, whether in Piedmont, Maremma, Montalcino or Mount Etna, the Gaja family always has a firm eye on the future.”

Eric Guido, Vinous (11/20)