“The 2017 Barbaresco Angelo is superb. The aromatics alone are simply beguiling. Rose petal, mint, lavender, pine, orange peel and sweet red cherry give the Angelo remarkable allure. Pliant and silky on the palate, with striking resonance, the Angelo impresses from the very first taste. Its overall balance is simply remarkable. I loved it. Drinking window: 2025-2037. 95 points
This is an impressive set of 2017s from the Rocca family. The estate has been on a roll these last few vintages. Like all 2017s, the Albino Rocca Barbarescos are on the lighter side, but what stands out in the range is a level of site expression that is rare in this vintage. All of the Barbarescos are aged in cask, with the exception of the Cottà, which sees slightly smaller oak because of the tiny size of the parcel.”
“Pouring from the bottle with a light ruby color, the Albino Rocca 2018 Barbaresco Cottà shows dried cherry, cassis and lots of blue flower or summer lavender. This is a classic and neatly contained expression of cool-vintage Nebbiolo. The bouquet is fluid but also compact, and you can look forward to an interesting aromatic evolution to come as this wine continues along its aging path. Only 2,000 bottles were released. Drink: 2023-2037. 93+ points”
“The 2019 Barbaresco Ovello Vigna Loreto is fabulous. Bright and translucent, with terrific energy, the 2019 is all class. Crushed red berry fruit, rose petal and orange peel convey the purest essence of Nebbiolo classicism. White pepper, chalk and mint lend brightness to the taut, very Ovello finish. In this tasting, the 2019 is positively stellar. It saw 25-30 days on the skins followed by 20-22 months in cask. Give it a few years to soften. Drinking window: 2025-2039. 95 points
This is another set of gorgeous wines from the Rocca family. As has been the case now for some years, the wines are marked by striking translucence and tons of site character. The Barbarescos are fermented in tank and then aged in cask for about two years, the exceptions being the Cottá and the Angelo, which are vinified in oak uprights and see submerged cap maceration at the end of fermentation. Readers who have not tasted these wines recently owe it to themselves to do so, as the transformation here of late towards wines of purity and finesse is significant.”
“The 2019 Barbaresco Ronchi is a deep, potent wine. In this tasting, the Ronchi impresses with its stature, aromatic presence and textural intensity. Dark red cherry, red plum, cinnamon, rose petal and dried flowers emerge with a bit of coaxing, but the Ronchi is one of the least giving wines in the range today. I would cellar if for at least a few years. It is another wine where elegance and power meld together. Drinking window: 2025-2039. 96 points
This is another set of gorgeous wines from the Rocca family. As has been the case now for some years, the wines are marked by striking translucence and tons of site character. The Barbarescos are fermented in tank and then aged in cask for about two years, the exceptions being the Cottá and the Angelo, which are vinified in oak uprights and see submerged cap maceration at the end of fermentation. Readers who have not tasted these wines recently owe it to themselves to do so, as the transformation here of late towards wines of purity and finesse is significant.”
“The Poderi Aldo Conterno 2017 Barolo Bussia Cicala reveals a deep garnet color with some dark copper. Like the other 2017 wines from this celebrated producer, I can’t help but suspect that these areas of Bussia suffered from the heat and some of the other weather challenges associated with this growing season. A clear note of overt ripeness comes across as dried strawberry or sweet crème de cassis. The finish is similarly weighed down by the fruit weight and oak tannins. Drink: 2023-2028. 91 points”
“The Poderi Aldo Conterno 2017 Barolo Bussia Colonnello shows good focus, structure and a sharper character that is often the distinguishing factor in this wine. The bouquet is redolent of dark fruit and plum, but it also shows a solid framing of iron ore and dark stony mineral. These give the wine greater lift and contoured edges. This is not the first time that Colonnello is my favorite wine in this lineup, and I suspect it won’t be the last. Drink: 2025-2040. 94+ points”
“Opening to a dark color and robust consistency, the Poderi Aldo Conterno 2017 Barolo Bussia Romirasco is perhaps the most powerful of the four new releases reviewed here. Wearing broad shoulders and sporting a heavy gait over the palate, the wine sees a solid construction of dark berry and spicy or toasted oak aromas. There is a lot to behold in this bottle, and it definitely shows the potential to soften and relax with more cellar aging. However, you definitely need to put the bottle aside for many years. Drink: 2025-2043. 94 points”
“One of the things I have always enjoyed about the Allegrini portfolio is how focused the family is on the importance of place. Last year, the La Grola hill provided terrific insights into the importance of terroir. La Grola is the source of Allegrini’s namesake wine and the varietal Corvina Veronese, La Poja. This year, the high-elevation (411 meters), Fieramonte vineyard really shined with the release of the 2015 Riserva. While the Amarone Classico remains a benchmark of the region, the Fieramonte takes things to a deeper and more savory place. Its aromatics alone are enough to keep the taster fascinated for quite some time. The 2015 is one of the best wines I’ve ever tasted from this estate. My hat is off to Marilisa Allegrini.”
“The 2017 BruneIIo di Montalcino is dark and powerful, with wave after wave of balsamic spices, wild herbs and crushed black cherries emanating from the glass. The depth of texture here is something to behold, weighty and fleshy in feel, yet perfecfly in balance, as brisk acids enliven the gobs of red and black fruits within. The tannins take a backseat as nuances of plum, clove, licorice and cocoa appear under an air of purple-tinged flowers. The 2017 tapers off remarkably long and potent, with a structure that will carry it for years to come. It’s a totaI success for such a difficult vintage. Drinking window: 2023-2027. 92 points”
