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    Daniel Landi Cantos del Diablo 2019

    £64.75

    “The bottled version of the 2019 Cantos del Diablo comes from a warm, Mediterranean vintage. It’s a little more fruit-driven, ripe at 15% alcohol but keeping the freshness. The 2019 tannin is still there, even after one year in foudre and an additional six months in concrete to polish the tannins, a practice common in other wines from the vintage. The profile is a little earthier, a little more Italian if you like but with the combination of the floral and Mediterranean notes. It’s the more Mediterranean of the 2019s, developing a note of esparto grass in the glass. So, this was bottled later, in July 2021. 1,595 bottles were produced. I’d wait a little longer for this. Drink: 2023-2029. 94 points

    The wines from Dani Landi are produced by Comando G in the facilities of Comando G, but the different label reflects just the ownership of the vineyards. So, I always taste the wines together, and I compare them with the wines from Comando G. Starting with the 2021 vintage, the wines from El Real de San Vicente will be transferred to a new project called Vinicola Mentridana, where Daniel Landi will share responsibilities with his friend Curro Bareño, both born in the village. And there will be a new village wine from there, called Mentridano, produced with their family vineyards. So, 2020 is the last vintage for Uvas de la Ira and for Cantos del Diablo here.”

    Luis Gutierrez, Wine Advocate (11/21)

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    Gramenon La Meme Ceps Centenaires Cotes-du-Rhone 2020

    £59.95

    Review to follow

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    Maume Gevrey-Chambertin En Pallud 2019

    £59.95

    “The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin En Pallud is the largest cru of the domaine, from 0.64 hectares of vine located just below Mazis-Chambertin. It is raised in used barrels apart from one (I tasted from new Francois Freres and used). The precise bouquet presents red cherries, raspberry, crushed stone and wilted rose petals, beautifully focused. The palate is very finessed with silky tannins and pure red fruit. As Pinoté as Pinot Noir can be. I absolutely love this. Drinking window: 2022-2038. 92-94 points

    Back in the day, Maume was the bastion of “traditional Burgundy”. When perceived wisdom was towards lacquering new oak on sensitive Pinot Noir and producers dogmatically adopted Henri Jayer’s principles of complete de-stemming, Maume was one of a handful that stuck to their principles of using whole bunches. The wines were inconsistent as testified by a memorable vertical of Mazis-Chambertin in London a few years ago, but for every wine that they got wrong and tasted vegetal, when they got it right and given requisite bottle age, the wines could be profound. In many ways Maume was ahead of their time, as nowadays numerous producers now proselytize the same tenets. The original holdings were almost entirely bought out by Canadian entrepreneur Murray Tawse to create Domaine Tawse, whose wines can be found in this report.

    Contractually, Maume retained a few morsels of vine and to be honest, since then I have not paid them much attention. However, I did return on this trip, back to their rather dishevelled winery on the RN74. Bertrand’s Maume’s father, Bernard, answered the door. Don’t be deceived by his advancing years. Maume Senior is as sharp as a pin. He spoke eloquently about the terroir of Gevrey and had lost none of his faculties that served him during an illustrious career as a professor at the University of Dijon. Bertrand has had more than his fair share of demons. Despite life’s battle scars when we met, I could not help recall some of the amazing bottles he helped create, as well as observing the bond between father and son. Tasting their 2019s that were picked from 14 September from barrel, it was patently clear that Maume never lost the knack of producing what you might call “fermented wonderment”. I tasted few Village Crus as spellbinding as their 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin En Pallud or a generic red as fine as their 2019 Bourgogne Rouge from the lieu-dit of Les Vignes Blanches, grown on white limestone soils as its name implies. Maume retained a cult following, especially here in the UK, evidenced by the pallets ready to be picked by their transporter. Tasting these 2018s and 2019s I can understand why they continue to have a loyal following.”

    Neal Martin, Vinous (12/20)

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    Roc d’Anglade Rose 2021

    £20.50

    “Nimes native Remy Pedreno owns 24 acres comprising ten parcels in Langlade, southwest of Nimes. “Wine crazy at 22,” as he describes himself, he was eventually convinced by Burgundy’s Dominique Laurent that he had tasting talent, and in 1996 tried raising one (“magic” Laurent) barrique of late-harvested Carignan in his parents’ garage. His second career in wine growing began just three years later as Renee Rostaing’s on-site partner at next-door Domaine Puech Noble (then called Puech Chaud), but Pedreno struck out on his own three years later and founded Roc d’Anglade after realizing that his stylistic ideals had evolved to the point of incompatibility with Rostaing’s. And rather extreme ideals these are! Harvest is earlier and at higher acidity and lower sugar than encountered with virtually any other southern French reds, an approach that in addition to suiting his personal taste proclivity, Pedreno is convinced results in wines which at least on paper reflect “finesse” and other terms of approbation applied for at least two centuries before the arrival of phylloxera to the once-prestigious wines grown in Langlade. (For a time after the Second World War, Langlade enjoyed self-standing VDQS status, but that seems never to have kick-started its revival, and even today there are only eight local growers.) “I haven’t run an analysis of any musts since 2003;” boasts Pedreno, “not of degrees, of acidity, or of polyphenols.” In recent years, he has converted his elevage first from barriques to demi-muids and now more than half to foudres and 1,300 liter muids from Austrian barrel-maker Franz Stockinger. “Finesse, freshness, and fruit are my three watchwords,” says Pedreno, who typically limits fermentative extraction in reds to 12 days and just two pump-overs and two punch-downs per tank total. (He laughs while I pause to absorb that claim!) Pedreno’s wines are all officially vin de pays (for which reason I have re-iterated the domaine name in describing them) and even abstracting from their significant reliance on Carignan, it strikes me as unlikely that any would win approval as Coteaux du Languedoc even if thus-submitted. While I could easily have imagined cooler vintages exaggerating this grower’s approach, in fact – perhaps because his aesthetic is attuned to them – years like 2008 and 2006 proved more expressive and better-balanced than their odd-numbered neighbors; and 2010 – with its significant share of all four cepages from estate fruit (Pedreno had swapped with Rostaing for Grenache before 2007) – offers a very favorable impression of what the future holds for this cuvee. “I love Chenin,” notes Pedreno of the grape that informs his white and manifestly fits his avowed aesthetic preferences, “but in fact I inherited this cepage from a previous owner of my vineyards who had planted it.” Eventually, though, he envisions a blended white analogous to his red and that would incorporate up to half a dozen traditional Languedoc-typical cepages.”

    David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate (08/11)

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  • Charvin Cotes-du-Rhone Le Poutet 2019

    £22.75

    Review to follow

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    Glaetzer Amon-Ra Shiraz 2020

    £42.50

    “I’ve looked at this wine many times over the years, almost exclusively as an older/cellared wine. The impact it has made is strong, and so it is through this lens that I now view this 2020 Amon Ra Shiraz. This year’s Amon-Ra is concentrated, dense and absolutely, utterly saturated with flavor. The fruit that spirals within the bounds of the firm tannins is fleshy and pure, and with the knowledge that the wine sails through the decade with noiseless grace, it is all the more impressive in its infancy now. A brilliant wine—all ductile and proud. Yes. Drink: 2022-2042. 97 points

    Erin Larkin, Wine Advocate (09/22)

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