Sweet


Showing 1–12 of 23 results

  • Chateau Doisy-Vedrines Second Growth Sauternes 2015 (375ml)

    £22.49

    “The 2015 Doisy-Vedrines has quite an intense nose, perhaps less fat and honeyed than recent vintages, more finesse if not quite capturing the same level of details as the Doisy-Daëne this year. The palate is very promising with layers of honeyed fruit tinged with white chocolate and almond, a lovely swagger about this Doisy-Vedrines that reminds me of great vintages such as 1989. Always well priced, you won’t harm your cellar with a case of Olivier Castèja’s sumptuous Barsac. Drink: 2019-2040. 93-95 points”

    Neal Martin, Wine Advocate (224)

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  • Dal Forno Romano Vigna Sere 2004 (375ml)

    £129.95

    “The 2004 Vigna Sere is the perfect conclusion to a vintage that will go down as one of Dal Forno’s most magical. Sweet, silky tannins support layers of super-refined, elegant fruit in this magical sweet red. Mocha, espresso, new leather, raspberry jam and spices emerge with time in the glass, but this is really a wine that shows off textural finesse more than anything else. I have tasted this wine many times since it was in barrel and later in bottle. It has never been anything less than spellbinding. It is one of the most magical sweet dessert wines l have ever tasted. At eight years of age the 2004 remains an infant. Drink: 2014-2024. 98 points”

    Antonio Galloni, Vinous (02/11)

     

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  • Donnafugata Ben Rye 2020 (375ml)

    £39.75

    Review to follow

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    Fontodi Vin Santo 2009 (375ml)

    £41.95

    “The 2009 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico (packaged in a 375-milliliter bottle) is an object of profound beauty. This extremely precious dessert wine pours from the bottle with thick and slow-moving waves of glycerin and sweetened richness. In fact, my fingers are sticking to my keyboard as I write this review. Aged in small caratelli barrels for 84 months, this Vin Santo shows a dark amber color with polished copper highlights. The bouquet is profoundly complex with dried fruit aromas of apricot and pineapple followed by brown sugar, maple syrup, toasted chestnut and savory tobacco. This is a full-bodied dessert wine that spreads over the palate with lasting intensity. In fact, you taste the wine in the mouth for many long minutes after you drink it. A mere 2,500 bottles exist. Drinking window: 2018-2060. 98 points

    The big news in Chianti Classico these past few months is that Fontodi’s Giovanni Manetti has been elected as the new president of the Consorzio Chianti Classico. He takes the reins from Sergio Zingarelli who was president for two very successful mandates that included the introduction of the Chianti Classico Gran Selezione category. I am very happy to hear of this change, mostly because I firmly believe that Giovanni’s genteel and non-confrontational personality will allow for a moment of reflection and unity in a growers’ association that has seen its share of controversy and infighting over the years. A mandate of tranquility would be the least we should expect of this new presidency. The most we can expect, however, is a stronger voice from growers over mapping and the delineation of subzones within the greater appellation, something I have been advocating. Giovanni Manetti and Fontodi represent the pinnacle of quality that can be achieved in this part of Tuscany. That he has become a symbolic head of the region only brings more prestige and pedigree to an appellation that demands our highest respect and admiration.”

    Monica Larner, Wine Advocate (239)

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  • Fontodi Vin Santo 2012 (375ml)

    £54.95

    Review to follow

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  • Isole e Olena Vin Santo 2010 (375ml)

    £50.95

    “If there is one winery that merits special recognition this year it is without question Isole e Olena. Paolo De Marchi presented a dazzling set of wines, starting with the 2017 Chianti Classico, a terrific example of the how the warm growing season added an extra element of dimension to some wines. Cepparello is so distinguished. What else is new? Today, readers don’t care much about international varieties in Italy. I will freely admit it – I am not a huge fan. But De Marchi has a rare talent in coaxing so much personality from his Chardonnay, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, all of which are fabulous. I don’t think there is another winemaker in Italy who can match his skill across that many different varieties. And then there is the Vin Santo, which is everything Vin Santo can and should be. Don’t miss these wines.”

    Antonio Galloni, Vinous (09/20)

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  • J.J. Prum Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese 2010

    £44.75

    “Site-typical lime and dark cherry accented by cherry pit make for a Prum 2010 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese at once liqueur-like in richness; juicily, vivaciously citric; and invigorating in its combination of subtly cyanic, chewy, saline, and zesty finishing impingements. Like so many of the more successful wines of its vintage, this also uncannily combines palpable senses of high extract with levity, its high acid and low alcohol reinforcing one another’s encouragement of vivacity and refreshment such as are seldom derived from a wine at this level of ripeness. This deeply flavorful, vibrant, and not in the least superficially sweet Auslese is I feel sure going to go strong for more than another 30 years. (Would that I could so easily imagine myself living to test that prognosis!) Drink: 2012-2042. 93 points

    Katharina Prum says she and her father performed some de-acidification on their eventual generic Kabinett bottling as wine, but otherwise employed only sparingly light double-salt must de-acidification, insisting that late harvesting was the essential measure to be taken this year against high acidity. (And, as usual, most of the wines were bottled in high summer, relatively late when compared with those of nearly all their Middle Mosel neighbors.) It’s not so much that measurable acidity dropped significantly in the second half of October, opined Prum, but that the character of the acidity changed in immeasurable ways. Other than the aforementioned generic bottling, concentration was deemed simply too high this year for any of an already small crop to be rendered as Kabinett. And indeed, only the two most prominent sites were captured in Spatlese format; all else is Auslese and above. Prum notes that levels of residual sugar are seldom significantly higher this year than in other recent vintages, with the result that the wines generally tend to taste a bit drier. “Above and beyond” (as it were) those wines I report on (or whose existence I at least mention) below, there is material from Wehlener Sonnenuhr expected to inform long gold capsule Auslese, Beerenauslese, and Trockenbeerenauslese and be released in future years. (Veteran readers of my reports will know by now that while there are often multiple eponymous Prum bottlings, the family is loathe to disclose the A.P. #s of wines they serve in tastings, numbers that might be required to disambiguate between lots which they insist that there will only ever be very slight difference. In 2010, the crop is was so small that there are few alternate bottlings.)”

    David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate (199)

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  • J.J. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese 2010

    £49.99

    “Smoky black tea, cinnamon spice, and candied lemon rind in the nose of Prum’s 2010 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese lead to a palpably dense, chewy yet glycerin-rich palate of spicy intensity and intriguing pungency but lacking the levity, clarity, or succulence that characterizes other wines in the present collection (and in particular the corresponding Spatlese). As this takes on air, it continues to prickle and tingle both aromatically and on the palate in a way that confirms the impression of more significant and marginally less pure as well as less subtle botrytis than found in most of its siblings. Still, this is a strong-finishing Auslese that I suspect harbors the multi-decade potential one anticipates from its genre at this address. And indeed, if it weren’t for the prestigious address, my slight reservations might seem quibbles. 91 points

    Katharina Prum says she and her father performed some de-acidification on their eventual generic Kabinett bottling as wine, but otherwise employed only sparingly light double-salt must de-acidification, insisting that late harvesting was the essential measure to be taken this year against high acidity. (And, as usual, most of the wines were bottled in high summer, relatively late when compared with those of nearly all their Middle Mosel neighbors.) It’s not so much that measurable acidity dropped significantly in the second half of October, opined Prum, but that the character of the acidity changed in immeasurable ways. Other than the aforementioned generic bottling, concentration was deemed simply too high this year for any of an already small crop to be rendered as Kabinett. And indeed, only the two most prominent sites were captured in Spatlese format; all else is Auslese and above. Prum notes that levels of residual sugar are seldom significantly higher this year than in other recent vintages, with the result that the wines generally tend to taste a bit drier. “Above and beyond” (as it were) those wines I report on (or whose existence I at least mention) below, there is material from Wehlener Sonnenuhr expected to inform long gold capsule Auslese, Beerenauslese, and Trockenbeerenauslese and be released in future years. (Veteran readers of my reports will know by now that while there are often multiple eponymous Prum bottlings, the family is loathe to disclose the A.P. #s of wines they serve in tastings, numbers that might be required to disambiguate between lots which they insist that there will only ever be very slight difference. In 2010, the crop is was so small that there are few alternate bottlings.)”

    David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate (199)

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  • J.J. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2006

    £79.95

    “The Prum 2006 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule introduces a note of caramel, here with heady over-ripe pear, gardenia, and a Chartreuse-like aura of herbal and floral distillates. Amazingly honeyed and rich yet light to the touch, this is possibly a somewhat more obvious wine than the auction lot of Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese, but also a more concentrated as well as more botrytized one. Expect it to be worth cellaring for four decades. (This wine is A.P. #13.) 93-94 points

    The Prums picked Wehlen and Zeltingen first, while the Graacher Himmelreich resisted botrytis to a greater degree, and by the time they came to Bernkastel (shades of the scenario at Selbach) botrytis was so advanced that they ended up vinifying their first-ever Beerenauslese from those sites. “From the standpoint of quantity, it was a catastrophe,” says Manfred Prum, but he judges this likely the greatest vintage of his lifetime, yet also as a vintage that is open and accessible early. I therefore had the opportunity to taste a wider range of young nobly sweet wines here than normal, although I was not able to re-taste them after bottling. There is in fact very little to taste at this estate from 2006 other than nobly sweet wine. Miniscule amounts of “normal” Spatlese (which I did not taste) were bottled from the Himmelreich and Sonnenuhr.

    David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate (179)

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  • J.J. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2013

    £56.75

    “The 2013 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese offers a noble sweet, very fine aroma of wet and flinty stones intertwined with grapefruit and lemon aromas. Lovely sweet and intense, but also delicate on the palate, this medium to full-flavored 7.5% alcohol wine reveals a great elegance and finesse and finishes with delicately juicy, grapefruit aromas. (I tasted AP number #15 14.) Drink: 2020-2040. 95 points

    “2013 was an Auslese vintage,” says Dr. Katharina Prüm when she served me nine (!) Auslesen and just one Spätlese from this difficult vintage (plus several 2012s that are still in the market and on which I report on our website eRobertParker.com). Whereas normally Auslesen are rare vineyard selections made from overripe and botrytized berries, in 2013 the Spätlese was the fastidiously picked “selection of ripe but healthy green and yellow grapes,” Katharina went on. “These were rare in our vineyards, but when we picked enough of them to produce a Spätlese in the style we love, we decided to auction it as ‘the rarity of the 2013 vintage’.” In the end the total quantities were extremely low (just 1/3 of a normal harvest) and the Prüms had to allocate their wines with great caution. They started picking on October 23, so quite late since “the berries were unripe and the acidity too high for a long time. But when we started harvesting also botrytis came and we really had to rush.” The results, however, are stunning and the Prüms presented some outstanding wines is one of the most difficult vintages of the last 25 years. 2014 was better because the loss was “only 50 per cent”.”

    Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate (217)

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  • J.J. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2018

    £38.49

    “Scents of quince and apple jelly are accompanied by a surprisingly greenhouse-like evocation of diverse flowers and foliage. I say “surprisingly” because many of the Prum 2018s deliver an especially heady, sweet, and often even decadent sort of floral perfume. Honeydew and Persian melons supply extremely ripe yet freshly juicy fruit that, when combined with the confitured quince and apple, make for an exceedingly luscious midpalate impression, reinforced by textural gloss and prominent but not excessive sweetness. The finish lingers impressively, reprising a welcome inner-mouth hint of flower shop. Look for this to deliver much more in future and to enjoy at least the typical ageworthiness of a Prum Wehlener Auslese, it not more. (There is also an auctioned bottling of Sonnenuhr Auslese – AP. #18 – which I did not have an opportunity to taste.). Drink: 2022-2050. 93 points

    Starting the harvest just past mid-September 2018 was record-early at this estate, as at so many others. Also like many others, the Prüms reported a remarkably leisurely pace, since clement weather left them unfazed. They only finished up on October 20, with ample opportunity to make selections for nobly sweet elixirs right up to TBA, though precisely what would be declared “above” long gold capsule Auslese remained to be determined when I tasted in late November, and such wines are only released some years after bottling. Also as at so many estates, fears that the heat and drought of 2018 would result in wines resembling 2003s in their conspicuously low acidity and baked- or dried-fruit character proved unfounded. Instead, while analytically modest acidity as well as sheer ripeness conduced to a slightly stronger sense of sweetness than in some other recent vintages, even where the Prüm 2018 collection reveals a confectionary cast, this is balanced by freshness and nuanced piquancy, despite the relatively late finishing date for harvest. Relatively low acidity no doubt also contributed to the alluringly creamy textures that so many of the wines display. Moreover, in complete contrast 2003 – or, for that matter, 2005 – there is an abundance of Kabinett, and the personalities of each site tend to come through especially clearly. “We really made a changeover [Umstellung] after 2005,” observed Manfred Prüm. “Accepted wisdom was always to wait so as to harvest with maximum ripeness, but at that point we realized it isn’t always best to wait,” a realization never more applicable than in 2018. One aspect of these 2018s that is reminiscent of 2003, though, is that even at the level of gold capsule Auslese, the extreme ripeness and impressive concentration were achieved, the Prüms insisted, virtually without botrytis, which they report only came seriously into play with long gold capsule Auslese and beyond.

    I was not offered an opportunity to taste those wines that were auctioned last September in Trier: a Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Lange Goldkapsel, a Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldkapsel (A.P. #19), a Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese (A.P. #18) and a Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese (A.P. #17). (For thoughts about this venerable estate’s recent evolution, consult especially the introductions to my coverage of their 2014s and their 2017s.)”

    David Schildknecht, Vinous (08/20)

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  • J.J. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2009

    £71.99

    “The Prums’ (non auction) 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese gold capsule A.P. #18 – like the corresponding Graacher Himmelreich – can be described as “confectionary,” but there most similarity ends. In this instance, the sheer sense of sweetness is much less overriding, and the prominent aromas and flavors are of malt, caramel, vanilla cream, hazelnut paste, and chestnut puree. The textural creaminess of this Auslese is sheer seduction and its sense of depth and layering – of mysterious darkness even – no less enticing. Yet at the same time, it (and indeed in 2009, it seems, wine from this site generally) retains a fresh fruit edge over its Himmelreich counterpart (whereas the converse was true in 2008) along with a mouth-watering sense of salinity. And so, we have a finish not just astonishingly persistent, but possessed of striking delicacy, enervation, and irresistible juiciness. I suspect this will merit following from 30-40 years. Drink: 2010-2050. 95 points”

    David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate (192)

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