White


Showing 157–168 of 191 results

  • J.L. Chave Selection Hermitage Blanche 2017

    £54.99

    “By now it’s no secret that Erin Cannon-Chave and Jean-Louis Chave’s semi-négociant operation is producing a range of consistently excellent wines that clearly show the Chave magic at user-friendly prices. While the Hermitage Blanc Blanche will inevitably be compared to the white Hermitage from the J.L. Chave domaine, the wines that intrigue me are that Crozes-Hermitage Blanc and Saint-Joseph Blanc since neither of those appellations are present under the family’s estate label. There may be a domaine Saint-Joseph Blanc, someday, “that’s probably a job that’ll wait for our children to take on,” Chave told me.”

    Josh Raynolds, Vinous (05/20)

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  • Jean Javillier Meursault 2020

    £44.49

    “As I wrote only a few months ago, Domaine Jean Javillier & Fils is the sort of estate that this wine critic dreams of discovering. Hiding in plain sight equidistant between the premises of Coche-Dury and Roulot, this small domaine—producing a mere 20,000 bottles per year—does everything the old-fashioned way. Farming vineyards that have never seen chemicals and which have been certified organic since 1971, Alain Javillier favors massal selections: “We tried clones in the past, but they are not as good; I’m only going to let you taste wines made from massal selections.” Reds and whites alike are harvested in small crates, with whites pressed in an old Vaslin mechanical press. The musts are chilled to 15 degrees Celsius, and Alain tastes the lees when barreling down. Twelve months maturation in barrel and four in tank ensue, followed by bottling by hand, by gravity. Reds, by contrast, ferment without temperature control, and only free-run juice is used. The result is chewy, structured whites with plenty of texture and dry extract and sumptuous, supple and exquisitely elegant reds. “Some people tell me I make red wine for girls,” Javillier remarks. The inspiration here is sound: the white and red Burgundies of the 1940s. How much longer can such methods endure? “Now everyone works faster and faster, we have more and more Chardonnay, less and less Meursault,” Javillier poignantly observes. Indeed, so unspoiled is this domaine, I hesitated to write about it. But any readers nostalgic for the wines of yesteryear, before the stylistic excesses of the 1990s and the subsequent reaction against them, will find them at this address.”

    William Kelley, Wine Advocate (01/22)

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  • Jean Javillier Meursault Cuvee Jean 2020

    £44.49

    “The 2020 Meursault Cuvée Jean is excellent, unwinding in the glass with aromas of pear, freshly baked bread, citrus oil, peach and pastry cream. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with racy acids and chalky structure, it’s a serious, classically styled Meursault that’s built to age. Drink: 2025-2045. 91+ points

    As I wrote only a few months ago, Domaine Jean Javillier & Fils is the sort of estate that this wine critic dreams of discovering. Hiding in plain sight equidistant between the premises of Coche-Dury and Roulot, this small domaine—producing a mere 20,000 bottles per year—does everything the old-fashioned way. Farming vineyards that have never seen chemicals and which have been certified organic since 1971, Alain Javillier favors massal selections: “We tried clones in the past, but they are not as good; I’m only going to let you taste wines made from massal selections.” Reds and whites alike are harvested in small crates, with whites pressed in an old Vaslin mechanical press. The musts are chilled to 15 degrees Celsius, and Alain tastes the lees when barreling down. Twelve months maturation in barrel and four in tank ensue, followed by bottling by hand, by gravity. Reds, by contrast, ferment without temperature control, and only free-run juice is used. The result is chewy, structured whites with plenty of texture and dry extract and sumptuous, supple and exquisitely elegant reds. “Some people tell me I make red wine for girls,” Javillier remarks. The inspiration here is sound: the white and red Burgundies of the 1940s. How much longer can such methods endure? “Now everyone works faster and faster, we have more and more Chardonnay, less and less Meursault,” Javillier poignantly observes. Indeed, so unspoiled is this domaine, I hesitated to write about it. But any readers nostalgic for the wines of yesteryear, before the stylistic excesses of the 1990s and the subsequent reaction against them, will find them at this address.”

    William Kelley, Wine Advocate (01/22)

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  • Littorai B.A. Thieriot Vineyard Chardonnay 2019

    £89.99

    “The 2019 Chardonnay Thieriot Vineyard stands apart from the other Chardonnays in this range for its bright, crystalline personality. Crushed rocks, white pepper, slate, pear and lemon peel all grace this absolutely exquisite Chardonnay from Littorai. There is a feeling of transparency here that is so utterly beguiling. Drinking window: 2022-2031. 96 points

    Ted Lemon describes 2019 as year with a good deal of rain early on and average crop levels. Harvest began on September 3, moderately early, but more or less in line with historical norms, and wrapped up on October 8. I thought the Anderson Valley Pinots were especially fine this year, but all the Pinots are marked by energy and the purity of flavor that is such a house signature. A recent bottle of the 2017 Wendling Pinot Noir reminded me of how these wines really blossom with a bit of time in bottle. Lastly, the 2019 Chardonnays are also absolutely brilliant across the board, another reminder of just how strong the vintage has turned out to be for Chardonnay.”

    Antonio Galloni, Vinous (01/21)

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  • Lucia Chardonnay 2019

    £47.99

    “The Pisoni family has long been synonymous with the Santa Lucia Highlands, and its wines and their farming roots here go back to 1952, when Gary Pisoni’s parents established their vegetable farm in Gonzalez. Gary took the initiative to plant vines in 1982, and the rest is well-known history to Pinot Noir fans. His sons are now fully in charge, with Mark watching over the family’s meticulously maintained vineyards and extensive vegetable plantings and Jeff making the wines at their facility up in Santa Rosa. The Lucia wines have long been ensconced in the upper quality tier of this region’s Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, and the 2018s extend that streak. There’s some new oak showing right now, unsurprisingly, but the wines’ intense fruit shines through clearly. While they display somewhat more restrained personalities than their 2017 siblings, these are definitely full-flavored, concentrated wines that beg for patience.”

    Josh Raynolds, Vinous (10/20)

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  • Maison Dampt Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2019

    £49.99

    Review to follow

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  • Marc Colin Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Champs Gain 2019

    £89.99

    “The 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Champs Gain 1er Cru is more reserved on the nose compared to the Chenevottes, touches of lemon rind and light fumé aromas. The palate is very well balanced with a crisp opening. Quintessentially Chassagne, there are lovely orange pith and tangerine notes coming through towards the finish with a long spicy aftertaste tinged with crème brûlée. Excellent. Drinking window: 2022-2040. 91-93 points

    Since splitting with his brother Joseph, whose wines will hopefully be added to this report in the not-too-distant future, winemaker Damien Colin, together with his sister Caroline, has continued to create some of the best Burgundy wines you will find in Saint-Aubin, Chassagne and Puligny-Montrachet, from his winery based in the confusingly-titled village of Gamay. “It is a complicated growing season with the frost and the ‘canicule’ [heat wave]. In some appellations we produced just 30% of a normal crop in 2019, though there are others that produced a normal yield.” Damien Colin added that in Saint-Aubin, parcels located on the slopes that normally escape frost, were affected in 2019. Vines on flatter areas that are prone to frost damage seemed to escape Scot-free. He continued saying that in Saint-Aubin, buds had already begun opening, allowing moisture to enter, causing some of them to ‘explode’ when it turned to ice.

    “Flowering was normal and then there was a heatwave in the summer, but the vines did not suffer much hydric stress despite the high temperatures that reached around 40°C. The harvest was small, so the maturity came very quickly. The vintage was expected to be 15 September but by the end of August the natural alcohol was around 12.0° to 12.5°. Therefore, we brought the picking forward and began on 7 September until 18-19 September. For the whites the alcohol degree is 13.5° to 14.0°C but with high acidity, mainly tartaric. The malic was low so after the malolactic fermentation the acidity levels are still good. The harvest was rapid because of the small yields, though we had to keep stopping and starting to be precise in terms of picking. The fermentation was quite quick, finishing around mid-November and the malos passed normally in springtime. From 2019 we no longer use SO2 until after the malolactic, which was fine in 2019 as the fruit was healthy. The SO2 inhibits some of the natural yeasts and without SO2 we have a broad spectrum of yeasts that engender more complex wine. The Village Crus are matured in around 15% new oak and the Premier Crus between 20% and 25% new oak. The 2019s are all taken from vat and will be bottled next spring with the final six months in tank.”

    The 2019s from Domaine Marc Colin do not disappoint and it is remarkable, almost irrational that such freshness could be conjured in such a dry and warm season. Standout? Perhaps surprising to some, it is not their morsel of Montrachet, good as that is, but a thrilling Bâtard-Montrachet, a Grand Cru that I feel over-performs in this vintage. If unable to splash the cash, then head for their outstanding Saint-Aubin Les Charmois or Les Combes or just buy both. I also found much to admire apropos their nervy Chassagne-Montrachets, particularly in Les Vides Bourses. Not every cuvée hit the bulls-eye, but generally these 2019s continue to consolidate Damien Colin’s reputation as winemaker par excellence. Pressing him to choose between 2018 and 2019 he replies: “It is difficult for me to say one vintage is better than the other. I find more terroir character in 2019 and I think that they will need more time.””

    Neal Martin, Vinous (12/20)

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  • Marc Colin Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Vide-Bourses 2017

    £99.75

    “The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Vide Bourse bursts with aromas of pear, Meyer lemon, honeycomb and toasty new oak. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, muscular and quite youthfully introverted, with lively acids and fine overall balance. In this generally quite open and expressive vintage chez Colin, it’s one wine that will need a little time. Drink: 2025-2045. 92+ points

    Damien Colin continues his progression towards longer élevage in larger vessels: In 2017, he purchased more 300- and 350-liter barrels, a trend that continued in 2018, and after a year in wood, his wines now see a protracted sojourn in tank on the lees. He’s adding less sulfur dioxide at harvest, finding that fermentations last longer. And longer élevage with attendant natural clarification meant that he was able to bottle his 2017s entirely without fining or filtration. Those 2017s, revisited from bottle, confirmed their fine showing last year; and 2018, rounder and more immediate in style, looks to be another success for Domaine Marc Colin, as my notes testify.”

    William Kelley, Wine Advocate (01/20)

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  • Marc Colin Puligny-Montrachet Le Trezin 2018

    £55.99

    “The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Le Trézin unfurls in the glass with scents of white flowers, fresh peach and citrus oil, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive palate that’s tensile and chalky. That’s quite typical of this sunny but high-altitude side. 89-91 points

    Damien Colin continues his progression towards longer élevage in larger vessels: In 2017, he purchased more 300- and 350-liter barrels, a trend that continued in 2018, and after a year in wood, his wines now see a protracted sojourn in tank on the lees. He’s adding less sulfur dioxide at harvest, finding that fermentations last longer. And longer élevage with attendant natural clarification meant that he was able to bottle his 2017s entirely without fining or filtration. Those 2017s, revisited from bottle, confirmed their fine showing last year; and 2018, rounder and more immediate in style, looks to be another success for Domaine Marc Colin, as my notes testify.”

    William Kelley, Wine Advocate (01/20)

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  • Marc Colin Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignieres 2017

    £59.99

    “The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignières is performing especially well from bottle, opening in the glass with a pretty bouquet that mingles apple and pear with notions of white flowers, citrus zest and praline. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with lovely depth and tension but also considerable charm and upfront appeal. Drink: 2021-2037. 91 points

    Damien Colin continues his progression towards longer élevage in larger vessels: In 2017, he purchased more 300- and 350-liter barrels, a trend that continued in 2018, and after a year in wood, his wines now see a protracted sojourn in tank on the lees. He’s adding less sulfur dioxide at harvest, finding that fermentations last longer. And longer élevage with attendant natural clarification meant that he was able to bottle his 2017s entirely without fining or filtration. Those 2017s, revisited from bottle, confirmed their fine showing last year; and 2018, rounder and more immediate in style, looks to be another success for Domaine Marc Colin, as my notes testify.”

    William Kelley, Wine Advocate (01/20)

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  • Marc Colin Saint-Aubin Luce 2018

    £38.99

    “Offering up aromas of crisp orchard fruit, white flowers and toasted nuts, Colin’s 2018 Saint-Aubin Cuvée Luce is medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural and precise, with a caressing attack and a charming, expressive profile. This will drink well young. Drink: 2020-2035. 89 points

    Damien Colin continues his progression towards longer élevage in larger vessels: In 2017, he purchased more 300- and 350-liter barrels, a trend that continued in 2018, and after a year in wood, his wines now see a protracted sojourn in tank on the lees. He’s adding less sulfur dioxide at harvest, finding that fermentations last longer. And longer élevage with attendant natural clarification meant that he was able to bottle his 2017s entirely without fining or filtration. Those 2017s, revisited from bottle, confirmed their fine showing last year; and 2018, rounder and more immediate in style, looks to be another success for Domaine Marc Colin, as my notes testify.

    William Kelley, Wine Advocate (01/20)

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  • Marc Colin Saint-Aubin Premier Cru En Montceau 2018

    £45.99

    “The 2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Montceau is also performing well from bottle, mingling aromas of pear, pomelo, orange oil, fresh bread and ginger. Medium to full-bodied, racy and tensile, with fine depth at the core but a more open, giving profile than the 2017 vintage, this will offer a broad drinking window. Drink: 2022-2042. 92+ points

    Damien Colin reported that his yields were some 30% below average and that the crop ripened rapidly, “even very rapidly.” Indeed, having projected a September 15 start, he began picking on September 7. Alcohol levels came in for the most part between 13% and 13.5%, with good phenolic maturity and lower pHs than in 2018. Having learned from a succession of warm vintages, every effort was made to retain freshness: working with cool grapes, minimal bâtonnage and moderate percentages of new oak. And in the vineyards, Colin is backing off rognage, working more flexibly to adapt to the vintage. All this translates to a very fine vintage chez Colin, delivering wines that are more concentrated and more clearly defined by site than the charming, open and expressive 2018s, also revisited here.”

    William Kelley, Wine Advocate (01/21)

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