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  • Jacques Puffeney Vin Jaune 2011 (620ml)


    “The style of the 2011 Arbois Vin Jaune from Puffeney is usually the powerful and concentrated style found around Arbois, aged in a warm and dry cellar that provokes a higher evaporation and thus concentration of the wine. This 2011 was released in 2018 (and it’s being offered again now), but I have not yet seen the 2012. I intended to uncork a bottle of the 2010 to report on it, but I couldn’t locate it in the mess of my cellar. But I found this 2011 and decided to share it with some friends along with some 42-month aged Comté cheese. I was very surprised at how elegant and subtle this is. It has a wonderfully tender and delicate nose, and then the palate is an explosion of flavors and has more clout and power than what the nose points out. This is one of the wines that made me decide I found 2011 to be a great vintage for vin jaune, better than 2010 in the cases where I also tasted the 2010. This is a great legacy from Monsieur Puffeney, and I’d stock a few (more) bottles in the corner of my cellar. If kept properly, this has all that it needs to develop for 50 years in bottle. Epic! Drink: 2019-2050. 98 points

    Even after retirement, some homeopathic quantities of wines from Puffeney keep arriving in some markets. I had the luck to catch two of them…”

    Luis Gutierrez, Wine Advocate (243)

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    Macle Cotes du Jura Ouille 2017


    “2016 was not produced because it developed veil, so we jumped to the 2017 Côtes du Jura Ouillé, a very clean and powerful wine from a warm and ripe vintage aged one and a half years in barrel (when the 2015 aged for three years). It’s from a good year for ouillé wines and has a good alcohol level but more important, a good pH that gives the wines it’s freshness. It’s fresh and young and was bottled without filtration. The wine is bright and clear, as the vintage produced wines that were naturally clear pretty soon. Only 900 bottles were filled in April 2019. Drink: 2019-2024. 93 points

    Tasting chez Macle in Château Chalon is always exciting. Laurent Macle seemed in top form, happy and full of energy, so he proposed that we start with some younger wines, taste the bottled and current releases and work our way down to some older wines, including a wine vinified by his grandfather!

    So, I tasted quite a lot of experimental wines, like an oxidative Chardonnay from 2014 that was aged in the oldest barrel they have, over 100 years old, and the wine had all the curry (sotolon) and morel mushroom aromas the sous voile and will eventually make it into a small new cuvée. Also a 2016 Chardonnay that started ouillé and later developed a veil of yeasts, so it has a faint Jura twang, very subtle but with the roundness of Chardonnay; the veil came later and seems to have had a rounding effect on the wine.

    There is a small solera started in 2015 with Chardonnay that now has been blended with 2017 and next year will get wine from 2018; the idea to age the wine for some six years, and it already had a great complexity. There is also a 2012 that contains 50/50 ouillé and veil wine, labeled with a white label; 2012 was a concentrated year, and the wine felt a little oxidative (from the ouillé wine, according to Laurent Macle).

    As for the Château Chalon, the last good vintage in volume was 2011, and the next one is possibly 2018. I was relatively disappointed with the performance of the 2010 compared with the previous 2009, and even in the context of the 2011. As for the older wines, I didn’t want to make a separate article here like I did last time; so, I included the notes here even if they are not necessarily available and might distort a bit the rest of notes for the current releases. But I thought the information was worth it.”

    Luis Gutierrez, Wine Advocate (243)

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  • Domaine de la Borde Cote de Caillot Chardonnay 2018


    “After an extremely challenging 2017 Julien Mareschal was very happy with the 2018 vintage. “A healthy and abundant crop, I’d sign up to have that every year!” he said as I arrived at his functional winery in the village of Pupillin, which is next to his house and around he corner from Pierre Overnoy. He picked early, and the wines are surprisingly fresh. He even compared 2018 with 2016… We tasted some 2018s from barrel, and the whites felt more powerful than the 2016s and felt like they needed a little more time; some of them might stay in barrel for one more year, so I thought it was a bit premature to review them so early. But the Côte de Caillot was again my favorite—serious, mineral and tasty with the limestone soils clearly coming through even at this early stage, rich and more Burgundian.”

    Luis Gutierrez, Wine Advocate (243)

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