/ / / Albert Mann Gewurztraminer Furstentum Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 2017

Albert Mann Gewurztraminer Furstentum Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 2017

£33.75

“Luminous golden-tinged straw-yellow. Very refined yet intense aromas and flavors of sweet spices, lemon curd, and smoke. Classy, archetypal Gewürz, with an extremely long and silky yet vibrant finish. The violet note is typical of the Furstentum; the vieilles vignes moniker refers to the fact that these vines are at least 45 years old. This is another big Gewürz but still comes across as relatively light on its feet (13.5% alcohol, 32 g/L r.s. and 4.5 g/L total acidity; curiously, the last two numbers are identical to those of the 2016 Furstentum Vieilles Vignes). The Furstentum is a magical site for Gewürz. Drinking window: 2020-2028. 94+ points

Over the course of just two nights at the end of April 2017 on which frost hit hard, the estate lost about 45% of its crop. Marie-Thèrese Barthelmy told me that she remembers budbreak taking place on March 25, and that on March 31 their cherry tree was already in bloom; then, on April 21, the roof fell and frost wiped out entire vineyards. Harvest began earlier than usual and was also finished fast, over just three weeks. What wines the estate did manage to produce are, as always, superb”

Ian D’Agata, Vinous (01/19)

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