Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2017

£58.95

“Allegrini is located in the Fumane sub-zone of Valpolicella, and it maintains vineyards throughout the Classica zone, which aids in creating a balanced expression of Amarone, the flagship of this venerable estate. As with many producers of the region, a new project has also begun in the Lugana growing area, where Allegrini is trying their hand at a blend of Turbiana and Cortese grape varieties to create their new Lugana Oasi Mantellina, now in its second vintage. What’s more, Marilisa Allegrini, current generation and owner of the estate, spoke in detail about many of the changes at the winery and throughout the region. One trend, which can be witnessed at Allegrini, is a push toward more IGT-classified wines, which allows producers to experiment with the region’s native varieties, as well as international grapes, without adhering to the blending rules of Valpolicella and Amarone. In the case of Allegrini, and in the trajectory I favor, it’s an interest in the potential of Corvinone, both as the primary grape within a blend or as a varietal wine. The results can be witnessed through the 2015 La Poja, included in these reviews, which was a standout in my tastings. However, there is also a new Valpolicella project that will be more focused on Corvinone. As much as I love to see producers pushing boundaries, my only fear is that many of these wines will be swallowed up by the sheer size of Italy’s IGT classification, and they may never receive the recognition they truly deserve. Another varietal wine to look out for is the La Poja, a 100% Corvina Veronese that doesn’t see any air-drying yet shows remarkable depth and concentration. That said, the wine that still impresses me most here is the Amarone. The 2016 that was tasted for this report is a force to be reckoned with.”

Eric Guido, Vinous (02/21)

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