Ata Rangi McCrone Vineyard Pinot Noir 2020


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“The 2020 McCrone Vineyard Pinot Noir is great. This leads with salted tomato, cherry and caper brine. This is mineral as hell, tight, expansive and spicy and gray in color spectrum; it’s not all ribald cherry/berry fruit. There is drama here—floral and rocky with ferruginous tannins. I like it. 14% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. Drinking window: 2023-2033. 92 points

Ata Rangi is one of New Zealand’s most respected Pinot Noir producers, offering nuance and complexity.The wines always manage balance ripeness of fruit with a delicate hand, extricating fine tannins. Long-time winemaker Helen Masters nails it every year whither the season. Several single vineyard cuvées have come on stream in recent years. The Kotinga, planted on gravel, is a bright, sappy style, while the McCrone, off clay-rich soils, is more robust, full and structured, taking longer to come around. Masters’ Pinot Noir from clay gravels also has a sense of structure and fragrance. The so-called entry-level Crimson provides a well-priced taste of fine Martinborough Pinot Noir.

Rebecca Gibb, Vinous (04/23)