Bernard Moreau Bourgogne Chardonnay 2017


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“The only wine in Moreau’s cellar that had already been bottled when I visited, the 2017 Bourgogne Chardonnay is indicative of the range’s stellar quality this year, offering up a youthfully tight bouquet of crisp pear, lemon oil and white flowers. On the palate, it’s medium-bodied and ample but incisive, with tangy acids balancing its generous mid-palate volume. While it will be charming in its youth, don’t be afraid to age it for a few years. Drink: 2018-2028. 88 points

The 2017 vintage is a great success across the board at Domaine Bernard Moreau, one of the most exciting addresses in the Côte d’Or. Incisive, intense and elegantly textural, this is a thrilling range of white Burgundies, from a modestly-priced Bourgogne Blanc all the way to Chevalier-Montrachet. What’s more, the wines are among the best prospects for sustained bottle aging of any in the Côte de Beaune, as they have as yet been untouched by the systematic premature oxidation that has plagued some of the region’s most famous domaines. I speak from experience, as this is the white Burgundy producer best represented in my personal cellar! Moreau also produces some of the finest red Chassagne-Montrachet to be found, a true insiders’ choice that shrewd consumers would do well to hunt down.

So what are the rudiments of this 14-hectare estate’s success? The domaine represents a loose division of labor between two brothers: Benoit, who concerns himself with the vineyards, and Alex who oversees the cellar. In the vineyard, they use only organic fertilizers and no pesticides. In the cellar, Alex Moreau appreciates long fermentations and extended sur lie élevage without stirring, the wines finishing their maturation in stainless steel where they generally see a light fining. New oak, largely from François Frères, is judiciously chosen. Beautifully balanced and differentiated by site, these are some of the most compelling white Burgundies being made today, and I warmly recommend them to readers.”

William Kelley, Wine Advocate (01/19)