Bernard Moreau Volnay Premier Cru Santenots 2019


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“Aromas of orange rind, plums, peonies and sweet spices preface the 2019 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots, a medium to full-bodied, velvety and sumptuous wine that’s deep and sapid, underpinned by lively acids and powdery tannins. 91-93 points

Between the spring frost and a protracted flowering, Alex Moreau reported that yields at this address were appreciably diminished, ranging from a decidedly low 25 hectoliters per hectare to a moderate 40. Harvest began here on September 7, and alcohols top out at 13.4%. Fermentations were a little fast for Alex’s liking, but this is once again a superb range, meriting a place in any well-stocked Burgundy cellar. Serious and concentrated, these 2019s evoke the domaine’s 2015s, but if anything they’re even better balanced. An unusually hurried schedule, compressed by France’s second COVID-19 lockdown, precluded revisiting the bottled 2018s, an oversight that will be remedied later this year—from my own cellar, if necessary. In any case, as ever, any wine bearing the Moreau label comes warmly recommended.

William Kelley, Wine Advocate (01/21)