Bruno Lorenzon Mercurey Les Vignes d’Orge 2021


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Bruno Lorenzon approached the 2021 vintage with the aspiration to, as he puts it, “optimize, not compensate,” attaining good maturities despite the challenging season and producing wines that transcended even the high expectations I habitually entertain for this estate’s wines. The reds are pretty, perfumed and charming, in a more open, middle-weight style than the “vins de garde” produced here in 2020, 2019 and 2018, meaning that they will offer exceptional early approachability. So far, so good; but the whites stand out even more as not merely a compelling performance in a difficult year but rather as some of the best that Lorenzon has produced to date. In their depth and density, they show none of the vintage’s stigmata; and their tension and finesse reflect all the positive attributes of a cooler year. Not content with expanding the parameters of the possible in Mercurey, with his Montagny premiers crus, Lorenzon is setting a new standard for another of Burgundy’s most neglected appellations.”

William Kelley, Wine Advocate (10/23)