Calabretta Nonna Concetta Nerello Mascalese 2019


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“This is the top-shelf wine from Massimiliano Calabretta that clearly shows its seniority within the estate portfolio. Dedicated to grandma Concetta, the 2019 Nerello Mascalese Nonna Concetta is made with very old vines, some over 100 years old, some younger vines and some vines that are planted on their original rootstock. The wine carries a Terre Siciliane IGT appellation and a mere 1,000 bottles were released. Fruit is sourced from the higher part of the Feudo di Mezzo vineyard (at 680 meters in elevation). The wine is punchy and bright (with some minor volatility), flaunting its artisanal winemaking approach (with short fermentations and neutral oak) and fleshed-out texture. This 2019 vintage is recognized for its concentrated fruit. There is a pinch of cherry sourness on the close, but the wine offers beautifully naked and pure intensity. Drink: 2021-2029. 93+ points

Massimiliano Calabretta has access to some excellent fruit from across different contrade. His vineyards start off at 550 meters in elevation at the lower part of Feudo di Mezzo and rise to 680 meters in the upper part. His Calderara Sottana and Taccione sites go up to 730 meters in elevation, and his Montedolce di Solicchiata vineyard is at 780 meters above sea level. Lastly, he farms Pinot Nero in a vineyard called Zocconero at 900 meters, and he says that the Nerello Mascalese that was once planted there only reached full maturity in one vintage out of four. He has recently acquired new land with ancient vines in Calderara Sottana and planted some new Nerello Mascalese vines in Taccione. His wine Sara draws its fruit from Feudo di Mezza, and that is the only single-vineyard wine he made in 2018. He skipped over the others because of the rainy conditions that year. He farms organically.”

Monica Larner, Wine Advocate (257)