Cantina Terlano Porphyr Lagrein 2019

“The Cantina Terlano 2019 Alto Adige Lagrein Riserva Porphyr is an opaque and richly concentrated wine that is almost impenetrable in appearance. Prune, raisin and all sorts of black fruits emerge heavily from the bouquet. The wine spreads richly over the palate, pushed forward by considerable fruit weight and pretty acidity. There are sweet earthy notes on the close of this 15,000-bottle release. Drink: 2022-2030. 93 points

Founded in 1893, Cantina Terlano is one of the leading quality cooperative wine estates in Europe. It is based in the village of Terlano near Bolzano and counts 143 members who together farm 190 hectares of vines. The soils are especially rich in reddish porphyry soils, quartz and other minerals because this area sits inside an ancient volcanic crater. This is the secret of these delicious wines, especially the late-release Rarity and the Terlaner I Grande Cuvée that are always among my top-scoring Italian white wines.

The estate philosophy was set by the legendary winemaker Sebastian Stocker and is rigorously followed today by current enologist Rudi Kofler and estate director Klaus Gasser. The estate has designed its own rounded bottle that is affectionately called the “Sebastianina,” named after Mr. Stocker who first designed it.

“Protecting our traditional bottle is part of our efforts to safeguard the Terlano brand,” says Klaus Gasser. “Its beauty and shape express the qualities want to transmit to the senses, and the bottle will be used on both the Selection and the Tradition lines from this point on.” The new bottles show a 10% reduction in glass weight.

Speaking of glass, Cantina Terlano has also introduced its own stemware, called Precision, made in partnership with the crystal factory Boema Cerva Bohemia. I am super excited to taste the wines of Terlano from these new glasses.”

Monica Larner, Wine Advocate (12/22)