Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2013


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“The 2013 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe is fabulous. The aromatics alone are thrilling. This is what Barolo is all about. Rose petal, holiday spice cake, leather, blood orange and macerated cherry abound. Silky and powerful, the 2013 shows tons of density on the palate and yet remains light on its feet for such a big wine. The wine’s sensuality offers a mirage of accessibility, but the 2013 is best cellared for at least a handful of years. There is nothing like Barolo, and this is a terrific example. The 2013 saw 36-38 days on the skins followed by five years in cask, with a preference for larger and more neutral oak that allows for a more gradual pace of aging in the cellar than smaller casks. Drink: 2028-2048. 96 points

This is an impressive set of Barolos from Cavallotto. All three wines are worth your attention. The Bricco Boschis is more refined than in the past, while the two 2013 Riservas are two fabulous examples from a vintage that is truly a modern-day classic along the lines of the great vintages of prior decades. As always, the Cavallotto wines are vinified in horizonal rotary fermenters on a very slow cycle that allow for what Alfio Cavallotto describes as “50% submerged-cap fermentation.” In structured vintages, like 2013 and 2016 time on the skins is in the 30+ days range. Aging is entirely in cask. The only other major development here is that copper, which is used to treat peronospera, has not been eliminated. Cavallotto told me he believe this has resulted in slightly thinner skins in the fruit.”

Antonio Galloni, Vinous (06/20)