Christian Tschida Felsen II 2023

“Located in Illmitz, Christian Tschida cultivates a total of 14 hectares of vines, of which 11.5 hectares are located in Purbach/Leithagebirge and only 2.5 in Illmitz. The reason? Everything below 200 meters in altitude is as boring as Zweigelt, says Christian, who started his venture in 2003 when he was 27. His goal was and is to produce wines that are more fresh and elegant than powerful, created by nature and with moderate alcohol levels. He employs two presses, one vertical basket press (from Bucher, which “works like hand claps”), one horizontal. Only 55% of the potential volume is pressed, and all the terroir-driven wines are aged in large oval barrels of 12 to 26 hectoliters. Natural yeasts, no additions (not even SO2) and no subtractions—Tschida follows the laissez-fair principle: no interventions, just patience. The reds (Blaufränkisch but also Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir) are kept on the mash for four to six weeks, but the extraction is rather an infusion.

Christian’s gastronomic natural wines are excitingly subtle, elegant and complex and can be found in the best restaurants in almost all big metropoles, although he sells them on the lowest quality level, Austrian Wine. I have tasted only a few bottled wines at the domain and several 2019s from the barrels, which were highly promising (namely the Riesling 2018 Laissez-faire from northern slate and limestone). I was curious to taste the bottled wines this winter, but Christian doesn’t like to ship them and instead invited me to taste the wines at the domain, which is 1,000 kilometers further southeast. I hope I can taste the final 2019s later this year, and if not, I can highly recommend them from what I have tasted from the vats.”

Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate (05/21)