Comando G Rozas 1er Cru 2020

“The partnership of winemakers Daniel Gomez Jimenez-Landi and Fernando García, established in 2008, is producing some of Spain’s most sought-after and intriguingly graceful and complex wines. All of the reds are made from Garnacha, and aside from the entry-level Los Brujos bottling, they are highly allocated and, given their widespread demand and limited production (seven wines, from 10 hectares of vineyards), aren’t too easy to find. The style here is distinctly elegant, with an emphasis on balance and energy rather than brawn. This is a cool, mountainous area, so even in hot vintages the fruit, which is drawn from old vines planted at high altitude, is able to maintain freshness. Winemaking here is done with a decidedly light hand, meaning whole cluster fermentations, no new oak influence and minimal handling. The wines show intense floral and spice character, with no undue weight and distinctly energetic character. Indeed, there’s often a Pinot Noir-like laciness and detail to the wines but they emphatically do not lack flavor intensity.”

Josh Raynolds, Vinous (02/21)