Domaine du Monteillet Cote-Rotie Fortis 2023

“The 2023 Côte-Rôtie Fortis is composed of roughly three-quarters Côte Blonde—principally from Combard, the southernmost sector of Ampuis—and one-quarter Côte Brune from Saint-Cyr and Fongeant, with around 4% Viognier in the blend. Matured for 20 months in demi-muids, it reveals aromas of spices, ripe dark fruits and perfectly integrated oak notes. Medium- to full-bodied, round and velvety, it’s enveloping and well-balanced, displaying depth and polished tannins. Long and gourmand in the finish, it remains surprisingly approachable for a young Côte-Rôtie. Drink: 2026-2041. 94 points

A visit to Domaine Monteillet is, without doubt, an impressive wine tourism experience. To reach the estate, one follows narrow country roads climbing gently into the heights above Condrieu, where the vineyards open onto a broad and majestic panorama over the Rhône valley. The Montez family represents the ninth generation working vines in this sector of the Northern Rhône. However, the current domaine largely took shape in 1999, when Stéphane Montez established himself with 7.5 hectares inherited from his father. Before returning home, he spent time abroad—six months in Australia, six months in South Africa and a formative period at Joseph Phelps in Saint Helena—followed by shorter stays in Switzerland and England. Those experiences shaped a more modern outlook, though his work ultimately remains anchored in the steep granitic vineyards of the Northern Rhône.

The estate now farms close to 50 hectares, largely concentrated within a short radius around Chavanay. Holdings include 20 hectares in Saint-Joseph, eight hectares in Condrieu—half located in the Chanson sector—along with 4.5 hectares in Côte-Rôtie and smaller parcels in Cornas and Saint-Péray. Around 10 hectares of Vin de Pays complete the picture. Viticulture follows organic principles, though without certification. Soils are regularly worked, and rows are mulched with thick layers of flax straw—between 30 and 50 centimeters deep, renewed every three years—to help mitigate drought. The domaine has expanded steadily since the mid-2000s, notably with the 2017 purchase of the Domaine de Clarençon on the border between Cornas and Saint-Péray, where previously abandoned hillside parcels are gradually being replanted.

Harvest takes place in small 22-kilogram crates. The reds are largely destemmed, with whole clusters rarely exceeding 40%. Fermentations proceed slowly at temperatures below 18 degrees Celsius with indigenous yeasts, and macerations last around a month with a submerged cap. After pressing, the wines settle briefly before moving to 600-liter demi-muids—about 20% new—from coopers including Taransaud, Vallaurine and Allary. The whites are picked in the morning and, for roughly 40% of the Viognier, undergo a short skin maceration of nine to 24 hours before long-press cycles of around three hours. The must has to be settled for up to two weeks before fermentation begins, after which the wines are moved to the barrel at the very start of alcoholic fermentation. Malolactic fermentation occurs systematically, and the wines remain on their lees throughout élevage without racking—Montez often describes the lees as carrying the DNA of the terroir.

The style has evolved over the last decade. Earlier vintages could feature generous use of new oak, a reflection of Stéphane’s New World experiences, though the influence of wood has gradually moderated. Recent reds possess more composure and stature, but they still require patience; these are wines built for the cellar rather than immediate drinking. The Saint-Joseph Cuvée du Papy shows notable depth and can age for two decades or more, while the Condrieu Chanson, raised for roughly 18 months, has become a more restrained and structured expression of Viognier. The Côte-Rôtie Les Grandes Places, raised for up to three years in barrel and containing a small proportion of Viognier, remains the domaine’s most powerful wine and typically demands several years of bottle age. Another distinctive cuvée comes from a one-hectare monopole at the lieu-dit Bons-Arrêts in the southern sector of Côte-Rôtie. This site loses the sun early in the evening and produces wines Stéphane describes as carrying a certain Burgundian purity. Across a steadily expanding range, the direction remains clear: refine the expression of each hillside parcel while maintaining the structure and longevity that define the domaine’s wines.”

Yohan Castaing, Wine Advocate (05/26)