Domaine La Barroche Chateauneuf-du-Pape Pure 2017


“The 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Pure is remarkably balanced, fresh and, yes, pure. The layers of raspberry fruit are blemish-free, so intense and concentrated that in other hands they might come across as jammy, but here, they’re fresh and vibrant, backed by a full-bodied palate that’s silky and airy in feel while possessing terrific intensity and depth. It should drink well for 15+ years. Drink: 2019-2035. 97 points

Winemaker Julien Barrot didn’t seem to mind that yields were down in 2018. “I like vintages like this, where you have good natural balance,” he said. “After June, it was a dream year.” He’s also taken steps to try to find that balance in the vineyard. The domaine stopped performing green harvests in 2015, as the larger crops help promote freshness and lower alcohol levels. Paradoxically in 2017, the naturally low yields allowed the grapes to continue ripening despite the drought-like conditions. “Because of the low yields, we never had blocage in 2017,” Barrot said, contrasting that to the situation in 2003, 2005, 2009 and 2011. Moreover, here at Barroche, the focus is increasingly on detail, rather than power. “We always have plenty of fruit—red fruit, dark fruit—but what is important is to look for the floral qualities.””

Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate (244)

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