DuMOL Ryan Pinot Noir 2010

“(made from fruit grown in the Widdoes vineyard; all Martini clone and raised in 45% new oak): Deep ruby. A heady bouquet of ripe red fruit and incense, complicated by intense mineral and floral nuances. Bright and energetic, offering sweet black raspberry and cola flavors that gain energy and spiciness in the glass. Tannins arrive late and are smoothly folded into this wine’s sappy, concentrated fruit. Dense but lively, finishing with good clarity and length. 93 points

According to Andy Smith, “2010 was a vintage that succeeded because of the wines’ balance, acidity and elegance.On top of that they have power.”The cool, grey summer allowed for “gentle ripening” and flavor buildup with no danger of sunburn or runaway sugars, he said, adding that in many cases the wines “have a rare combination of brooding and bright.”The even-keeled Smith, who is disinclined to hyperbole, said that thinks that his 2010s “are the best set of wines we’ve ever made, no question” and that they will reward patience, “even if they’re quite complex right now.””

Stephen Tanzer, Vinous (05/13)