DuMOL Widdoes Vineyard Ryan Pinot Noir 2016

“The 2016 Pinot Noir Ryan Widdoes Vineyard is one of the most distinctive wines in this lineup. Soaring, perfumed aromatics and bright, red-toned fruit give the Widdoes much of its multi-faceted profile. Red berry fruit, blood orange, mint and floral overtones build as this striking, deeply expressive Pinot shows off its unmistakable pedigree and pure class. Drinking window: 2021-2031. 95 points

Andy Smith and his team turned out a brilliant set of wines in 2017. The harvest was especially condensed, with most days seeing heavy picks of both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay pretty much concurrently. Smith told me the DuMOL parcels were affected by a high incidence of shot berries, which naturally lowered yields. Small berries, often with no seeds, further resulted in a collection of dense wines. Smith told me low alcohol conversions resulted in wines with a bit lower alcohol than is typical. That is fascinating, as the wines are quite rich in feel. The bottled 2016s are just as compelling from bottle as they were last year from barrel.”

Antonio Galloni, Vinous (05/19)